While I was aware of the ‘walled’ city on the Caribbean coast of Colombia, I was surprised by how proudly black culture was celebrated on my trip to Cartagena. Owing to its status as a central port for African slave trading in the Americas, inspiring displays of black artwork are exhibited across this vibrant city. But why not step just off-the-beaten-path on your trip to the thriving village of San Basilio de Palenque? This step back in time to the first free slave town in the Americas shows just how deep black culture runs in this popular Colombian gem…
In particular, the vividly distinct Afro-Colombian women dotted around, wearing bright dresses and exquisite handmade jewellery, selling unique fruits on street corners. And while many tourists will catch an Instagram-worthy photo with these lovely ladies (like mine below), few will seek the history behind their undeniable presence in this region…
For an invigorating day trip: follow the guidance below to the first free slave town of the Americas. An experience that greatly inspired me, filled with passionate resistance and cultural heritage, without taking you too far off the beaten path…
San Basilio de Palenque: A Brief History
These ladies, with their welcoming nature, unique language, and cultural spirit are from ‘Palenques’, which translates directly to “walled city”.
The Palenqueras are the direct descendants of African slaves who escaped from Spanish rule. Their ancestors consequently discovered and occupied a number of small villages in and around Cartagena called ‘Palenques’. Being the only Palenque still in existence, San Basilio de Palenque is accredited as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Owing to its preservation of original culture, traditions, and language that is still in existence today. Founded by Benkos Biohó and other slave escapees of the 16th century, the site gained independence in 1961, when a royal decree was signed and stated that the settlement would be free from Spanish rule. Moreover, in 2005, UNESCO proclaimed that the site represents an “Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity”.
Hidden remotely in the Montes de María mountains, the site is located approximately 31 miles (90mins) south of Cartagena. In my final week in Colombia, I stumbled across this documentary and decided to visit this cultural treasure.
The local route vs a guided tour to Palenque
It would have been easier to let ourselves be swayed into purchasing a $90-day tour. Most come with a set itinerary, air-conditioned transfer, and lunch included. Although more convenient (and definitely more comfortable), a scheduled 5-hour tour for me would have meant a less meaningful experience. I did not want to limit my freedom to really understanding the authentic culture of the Palenque natives.
The local route to San Basilio de Palenque
**Tip** Its best to set off early for this trip. Be aware the last bus can return to Cartagena as early as 3 pm…
- Firstly, you want to take a taxi to the bustling bus terminal in Cartagena.
- In the busyness of the Cartagena bus terminal, ask locals for which terminal will take you to one of Palenque’s closest towns- San Juan or Mahates.
- In the bus terminal, you can barter with different operators for the best price ticket. For instance, my bus went to Mahates and paid 6000 pesos, (so about £1.50!) They journey was hot, crowded, and a real representative of local life!
- The bus will drop you in what looks like the middle of nowhere. Thankfully, you’ll be sure to find locals waiting around who are willing to drop you to central Palenque. After alighting at Mahates or San Juan, simply mention ‘Palenque’ to them and agree on your price.
- We paid 3000 pesos- be aware of the hot motor under your right foot!
**Tip** Carry water. The bus was a hot and hectic ride that stopped every 5-10mins to let the fruit and drink sellers on and off. Echos of “cien pesos”, “agua, coffee, narage!” whilst four of us sat sweatily and piled into a two-person seat.
To Embrace Palenque Culture on your Day Trip…
1. Take a tour with a local guide
After talking to a few locals, we met Alberto- a Palenque native who spoke very little English. To gain an authentic insight into the culture, Alberto introduced us to Isaac, a member of the PeaceCorp who was living and working in Palenque- and spoke the language!
For a price of 30,000 pesos each (or £7ish), we received a tour from the inside out rather than the outside in!
The Palenquera language is a Spanish-Creole fusion constructed by the original slave escapees so that they could converse together unimpeded. Their slave masters were unable to understand the language, allowing escapees to speak freely.
2. Engage with the locals and learn their incredible history:
Palenque’s community spirit seemingly enabled them to resist and preserve their language, culture, and way of life from Western influence. I admired the passionate expressions of black pride dotted around this flourishing Afro-Colombian village.
We met a local family and learnt that the intricate braided hairstyles of Palenque women and girls were remnant of how braiding hair was used by the enslaved Palenque escapees to draw map-like escape routes. A fascinating attribute! And an inspiration to black females everywhere- your hair is not only beautiful, versatile, and unique. But, it was literally used to save the lives of slaves, leading them to freedom one braid at a time!
We were then greeted with shots of Palenque rum brewed directly by this local family.
3. Music is the beating heart of Palenque.
Despite its secluded nature, Palenque is home to a world-famous boxer and musical legends.
Firstly, meet Rafael Cassiani- the Champeta music genre champion from Palenque who still resides in the village. His friendly smiles and joyous attitude is heartwarming. Rafael then played one of the village’s traditional instruments to us, as Isaac translated his memorable stories. Rafael’s warm and inviting vibe was a genuine reminder of community spirit in this region.
- For a small fee you can get a picture with him and his instruments.
Next, test the traditional creative instruments from Palenque and visit the Kombilesa Mi Studio. I tried the xylophone-like ‘marimbula’ is utilised by the village famous Kombilesa Mi band. A young creative group appealing to the hip hop audience while combining a mix of Spanish and the native Palenquero language into their music to preserve Palenque’s rich culture.
4. Try the Culinary Delights:
As the standard of most day tours we made sure to negotiate this with the local guide.
The lunch was a colourful combination of delicious fried red snapper served on a banana leaf and accompanied by side of coconut rice and a mango salsa. As per the The Culture Trips article: other dishes include “potato and meat stews and cabeza de gato, a sweet-spicy mash made from green plantains, onions, garlic, red bell pepper, tomato, and achiote”.
5. Finally, Enjoy the Rustic Architecture and Snap the Cultural Artwork:
A Cultural Treasure- Not to be Missed!
There is a profound historical significance behind the isolation of Colombia’s San Basilio de Palenque that is reflected throughout this novel village. A powerful reminder of the African struggle across the Americas and more beautiful than I ever would have imagined. To me, the presence of San Basilio de Palenque’s in 2019 has successfully retained and celebrated the souls of its original settlers.