Are you planning your post-covid backpacking escape but unable to decide on the right backpack? In this post, I review the Osprey Fairview 70 specifically as an ideal backpack for curvier women.
So many backpacks out there, but still, it’s hard to find something that REALLY suits a curvier female frame. Plus, all that time locked up during the pandemic seems to have sparked a stronger desire in many of us to explore the great outdoors. If taking off to travel for an extended period of time is now on your bucket list- you’ll need a solid backpack to accompany you! For the last 3 years, I’ve been travelling long-term with my Osprey Fairview 70.
She’s come with me to India, Bulgaria, Peru, Greece, Trinidad and Tobago, Portugal, Croatia and Ecuador, and is now in Colombia with me. Thankfully still, in very good condition!
As one of the best travel items I’ve purchased, I’d like to provide an honest review of the reliable and popular Women’s Osprey Fairview 70 backpack. A spacious, light, durable and comfortable option- particularly for curvier women looking for adventure!
Osprey continues to prove its popularity worldwide amongst backpackers. As a reliable brand due to its worldwide replacement service, I’d had Osprey recommended to me by fellow travellers and many reliable channels before. Most of all I am genuinely happy to recommend this product after 3 long-term trips including a 9-month trip in India. With little-to-no wear and tear, I can highly recommend this spacious and comfortable travel buddy!
The Osprey Fairview 70- A Backpack for Curves
Men’s and Women’s bodies are inherently different, but the market is finally providing a selection of backpacks better designed to fit a women’s build and frame.
In-store however, I still found that many female packs were better suited to women with smaller and more square-framed figures.
During my research, however, I found that: 1) Most waist belts were too solid and did not sit well on my soft wider hips. 2) Around my chest, the skinny straps felt awkward. And 3) The lower padding didn’t adjust to the curve of my lower back.
On top of the size, capacity, materials, weight and added features, I felt something like Homer Simpson out of a scene at the nuclear plant.
That was until I stumbled across Osprey and the highly recommended Fairview 70 Women’s backpack. Being a size 10-12 in tops, and 12-14 in bottoms, I was relieved to find something with more flexible, wider waist straps. On top of a number of other great features to suit my needs.
The Osprey Fairview 70:
The Fairview Range is Osprey’s lightest pack yet. With a design specifically suited to women, the pack is available in 3 sizes. The Fairview 40, Fairview 55 and, theFairview 70 (57+ a zip and clip 13ltr day pack) which this review will focus on.
A detachable 13ltr day pack with space for a day out that can be zipped on at the back and strapped at the front (more below).
Cushioned carry handles at the top and side
A large front zipped opening to the main compartment enables you to pack like a suitcase.
Strong zips with hoop straps that can be padlocked
Multiple adjustable straps to tighten everything in
A back panel cover to zip away straps and handles when checking in hold luggage.
Laptop sleeve inside the day pack
Mesh sleeve pockets for a water bottle or small items on the day pack.
To begin with, I initially didn’t like the Fairview 70 coming as a 2-piece set. I thought having (only) 57lts for the main pack was too little! But boy was I wrong, I love the design and customisation of the Fairview travel backpack and 13ltr detachable pack!
The main compartment offered more than sufficient space and comfort for my figure. With 57ltrs of space, I am able to fit everything that I need months/years of travel at a time. Furthermore, the 13ltr detachable pack is a comfortable carry-on option at the airport. There is a laptop slot, extra pockets for documents, and a water bottle pocket making it perfectly suited for day trips!
(Just) the clothes I fit in the pack!
Osprey Fairview 70 Pros & Cons- An Overview
Pros 🙂
Cons 🙁
Very spacious main pack that fits 57ltrs. Plus a 13ltr detachable pack.
No pockets on the hip belt.
Lightweight (2.3kg) well-balanced pack on the upper and lower body
The material is not waterproof and the pack does not come with a cover.
An optional back panel to tuck away straps and hip belts- ideal for checking into the hold.
The whole backpack can feel ‘snail-like’ with both the main and detachable packs on your back.
Thick and comfortable handles on the side and front, making it much easier to lift.
The detachable pack is slightly small, when full you cannot utilise the mesh pockets for a water bottle
Thick and durable material that will outlive wear and tear.
Can feel very heavy if overpacked. Stay in the 10 to max 15kg range.
Wide and soft hip straps that can easily adjust to your shape
If overpacked, hard to attached 13ltr backpack to the main 57ltr compartment.
Osprey Fairview 70- My Top features:
1) Comfort and Customisability for Curves
As per the table above, the Osprey Fairview 70 clearly offers many more pros than cons. Honestly, I feel like I’m having to pick at the negatives!
It’s important to highlight in this review that the backpack has high customisability. Which makes this backpack a much more attractive purchase. The Osprey Fairview 70 offers different options to balance the weight of your items and make long-term travel more comfortable.
One of my favourite features of the Osprey Fairview 70 is how the detachable pack can be either zipped on at the back or strapped on at the front. For myself, carrying all of my things on my back can lead to pressure on my lower back and hips.
So, being able to easily clip the day pack (with my laptop and camera in it) at the front balances out the weight nicely on my upper and lower body.
2) Comfortable handles for lifting
I also, just love that the pack has these thick and cushioned handles for lugging the backpack on buses, and trains and lifting it to put on your back. the comfort of the handles ended up being one of the main reasons I chose the Fairview 70 over other models.
The provision of the 2 handles allows you to easily lift the pack in a balanced way and limit the possibility of injury.
3) Wide and Flexible Hip Straps
Finally, as mentioned above, the main reason I went for this pack was the wide and soft hip belt. As your hips will be carrying most of the weight, you want to make sure you find something that fits your shape adequately. You never know how long you may have to walk with all your things on your back!
The breathable, flexible and wide straps easily hugged my waist and hip ratio. Getting rid of the boxy, harder feeling I felt with other packs. The mesh and cushioned lower back padding reduce pressure when carrying 10-15kg on my hips
Osprey Fairview 70- Summary
All in all, this backpack has so many benefits, as well as a few compromises of course. For me, it was all about space, comfort and durability. And the Fairview 70 more than delivers on all of those.
I used the Fairview 70 with a set of Amazon packing cubes which complement the rectangular shape of the backpack perfectly.
When setting sail on a long-term trip, your backpack is essentially your home. As such, everything you own and need shall be hooked somewhere onto your body and tucked safely away for your next destination. So, deciding on a backpack is a tough decision for anyone. I hope this review has made it a little easier, I would love to know of any females that agree on how comfortable it is for curves!
Life is filled with all kinds of uncertainties. Even more so when a global pandemic disrupts any kind of normality. Here we are, a few weeks into a new year, and a heightened level of uncertainty looks to be sticking with us for the long run. Today, I want to talk about not only accepting our present situation of uncertainty- but, how you can actually embrace it too.
As humans, we’re naturally inclined to set goals, have aspirations or specific dates we’re working towards- almost always with an end goal in mind. So these dubious times can surely drag us down and become pretty overwhelming. Coronavirus has derailed our routines, plans and inflicted a new level of uncertainty into everything. From our employment, travels, finances and freedom, to our physical and mental health. When I remember I ‘should be‘ in Australia right now and soon to tour Africa, I have to laugh… Or I’ll cry.
The lessons and methods detailed in this post have helped me calm my nerves during my 1st lockdown back in England, and use this time for positivity and personal growth.
Learning to embrace uncertainty during a pandemic
(Just a little backstory for anyone new to my page, hey!)
In early 2020, I departed the UK with the full intention of travelling the world long term. This was a dream I’d been planning and saving towards for 5 years before the pandemic hit. As such, I ended up living in India for 9 months of 2020 and returned to London in December (just in time for the UK’s 3rd national lockdown, yay!).
Lockdown at home is strange now that I’ve lived abroad by the mountains or beach for the majority of this pandemic. The days are grey in London, and with no end in sight to global travel bans- I’m doing my best readjusting to life back here (for now!).
Bob Goff, a motivational speaker and author once said, “Embrace uncertainty, some of the most beautiful chapters in our lives don’t even have a title yet”. This could not be more true, think about it:
When we fear uncertainty, we quickly fear that our ‘control’ is being taken away from us. A symptom of losing control is allowing the ‘what ifs’ to take over, letting our minds to spin into a tornado of unknowns. It is often in the unknown that we find ourselves in turmoil and held back from living presently.
But, when we embrace the uncertainty of the present, we turn that unknown into an opportunity, we begin to write our next chapters.
Truly, the only control we ever have is of our thoughts and therefore our actions, in the present moment. Physically, we never truly have control of anything. Any situation, anyone. Releasing the need to be in control can help us accept that control is merely an illusion in the physical world, and that uncertainty is the only reality.
If India taught me one thing, it’s to be in harmony with the present moment…
We cannot change what has been, and 2020 has definitely taught us that there’s no telling what the future will bring.
So, if your present moment is the only thing you can really and truly affect, why would you waste energy stressing about what’s been or what’s to come? The truth is that all we really have is this time, right now. Regardless of what happens with the world, YOUR TIME is only going to continue to pass. Which absolutely gives you every incentive to utilise this period best you can and embrace the uncertain circumstances we find ourselves in.
8 healthy habits to help you embrace uncertainty in 2021.
So, with the future so uncertain, here’s how I am trying to make my present situation as okay as possible. And how you can too!
Dave- my saving grace!
1. DIY and Decluttering/ Minimalism:
“I’ve been meaning to do that… I just haven’t had the time!” As a DIY novice, sometimes the simplest task can seem overwhelming when we’re so busy. But during this period, I’ve completed tasks that I’ve been meaning to for years. YouTube has been so helpful upping my handy-woman skills, bleeding radiators, filling holes, cracks and repainting!
Furthermore, after living out of a backpack for the last 9 months, I’ve realised how much I DON’T NEED. I’ve found joy in decluttering, recycling and selling my bits and pieces, and created a warm and fresh looking space that feels like my sanctuary.
2. Connecting with nature and walking often
What better way to get away from the TV, daunting news and social media? I’ve decided to give up my car and committed to walking as much as I can every day. No more going a few stops on the tube. Gyms are closed in England, and India taught me how much I enjoy walking and being with nature. Plus if you’re lucky enough to have a little one like Dave, they’ll love you more for it!
Views from Battersea Park
3. Photography & Editing
To compliment being in touch with nature- carry your camera! I personally use my Canon M50 as well as my P20 Pro when out and about. But, I also love editing to bring life into my pictures. Lightroom is a popular option, or my favourite- VSCO!
4. Yoga- stillness & peace of mind
When it does all get a bit wild in my head, I can always rely on yoga for peace of mind and stillness to connect with myself. Yoga with Kassandra is great for her calming nature and narrative allowing time for powerful mantras and deep meditation. She also offers a 30-day yoga course on Youtube throughout January! My personal favourite:
5. Cooking and taking care of your health
During lockdown in India, the food was so limited that I really grew an appreciation for simple and delicious food. As per, I’ve been practising cooking and preparing more simple dishes, alongside cutting out sugar for January! I’m already feeling and looking healthier by changing my mindset and relationship with food. I will be sharing a post on this soon!
If you know you know. But, if you don’t, the above is my Jamaican signature dish of ackee and saltfish. I’m working on a piece to share the recipe!
6. Mindfulness and Gratitude
It may get worse from here, it may get better, but I’m staying grateful for how far we’ve come. This situation was totally unprecedented, yet I witnessed major growth in response to the challenges of 2020. Practicing gratitude can help you calm the noise, and feel confident in what you DO have, what you CAN do right now. In other words- embracing the uncertainty of now.
7. Goals without dates- Do more of what you love
Still, I’m a strong believer in goals and manifesting what we want in life. But, why do we need a date for everything? Taking small steps each day with your goal in mind will result in growth either way. For example, reading a book on property investments without setting a date for when you want to buy a property. Or rather than rapid weight loss for your beach holiday in Feb, how about amending your goal to focus on your health and relationship with food? I often set dates for my goals, but I’m left with negative feelings and disappointment when I don’t meet them.
How about we use each day to do a little bit of what we love working towards our goals- and enjoy the journey?
8. Slow living- this is YOUR time
If you haven’t heard of the slow living movement, its high time you check it out! The Coronavirus period fits perfectly with slow living as a lifestyle choice, as many of us have been given some of our precious time back. Remember all those hours commuting to the office? All those dinners and nights out? All those moments you had to cut short to fit in with the speed of life? As summarised on sloww.co ‘s Slow Living 101- “Slow living is a life philosophy, a state of mind and being, a reflective approach, and methodical process to daily life”.
Given the constraints of normal life have been lifted, this period is really about owning your time. By embracing slow living, you are choosing to embrace your time in a mindful, purposeful and conscious state. Or embracing the uncertainty of these circumstances, to take joy in the little things.
Slow living in South Goa- Watching beach crabs build intriguing designs in the sand.
CONCLUSION
Really and truly, I’m experiencing lockdown in the UK for the first time. And having to embrace the uncertainty of any travel for the foreseeable. But a major lesson I learned in lockdown on the other side of the world, is that regardless of what I do, my time will only keep passing. So, if time is all we have, then why not embrace it? We can really utilise this time to discover what you really love, what truly makes you happy, and embrace the uncertainty of right now, regardless of the global situation.
Embracing uncertainty is a useful approach for seeing the coronavirus period through a mindful lens. To me, it is essential that we speak and share the lessons and growth of this period and align with a positive and productive mindset. By doing so, when we look back at this time, we will acknowledge the undeniable positives when we embraced uncertainty during the Coronavirus pandemic.
Personally, I see this period as a wake-up call unlike any we’ve ever seen before.
“From midnight, the entire country shall be placed in a complete lockdown. No one may go out at all, police will guard the streets, so if you want to stay here, you must not leave the hostel”
Those were the words of my hostel host who stood awkwardly in front of 60 bemused faces. It’s March 2020 and I’d left London on a one-way ticket to India when like most people, my plans were suddenly thrown into disarray.After a hectic journey, I arrived at a quaint hostel in the spiritual hub of Rishikesh in Northern India. As hysteria over the Coronavirus fuelled fear and uncertainty across the world, I was now stuck in one of the world’s strictest lockdowns. A family of 60 backpackers formed a circle in our hostel and accepted we were going nowhere.
Despite my best intentions and saving for 5 years, my dream trip around the world led me to quarantine in an Indian hostel as the pandemic hit. My original plan was to travel through India for 2 months before heading to Asia, Australia and around the world for the next 2-3 years.
Well 7 months later… I’m writing this piece from a strangely quiet Goa, in Southern India.
For a bit of background, I’d saved for this trip for the previous 5 years and my plans finally came to fruition while the pandemic was still relatively ambiguous. I arrived in Delhi in March 2020 and spent my first day celebrating Holi with the locals.
The next day, the WHO announced a global pandemic.
Now I was in a country I’d once known and loved for its friendly faces and welcoming culture. You’ll understand how my heart sank when I waved to a bunch of locals in Jaipur and hostile eyes gazed back. On day 3 of my trip, a local officer stopped a group tour in Jodhpur requesting that “Foreigners do not touch the building”.
Perhaps I should have gone home? My friends and I joke these days that it was pure pride that stopped me from returning to England. But in all seriousness, all that build-up, emotional goodbyes and 5 years of saving. Just to return home in a couple of days?
Lockdown in India- Corona Crisis to Happily Stranded
There’s no doubt, COVID-19 has wreaked havoc on the world. But, it has also unveiled more about our lifestyles than we could have realised. Particularly, on spending time with family, the beauty of community, remote working, and the surprising joy in pausing and taking things slower.
A lot of which, I experienced locked down in a hostel in Northern India with 60 strangers.
Throw in limited showers and drinking water in the heat of the Indian summer. Plus a batch of Indian police with bamboo sticks in the streets and a 3-month restrictive diet of daal and rice every day for lunch & dinner. A strange set of circumstances, which felt like a series of ‘I’m a Celebrity’ combined with a social experiment of Big Brother, became the most life-changing experience I could have imagined.
The craziest decisions are usually the best right?
From turmoil to victory, corona chaos to being happily stranded abroad. I’d have to write a book (maybe someday) to accurately describe what really went on in lockdown in India. So this will be a (snippet) from my home away from home. With no idea where the Coronavirus situation would go next.
From the highs to the lows, love and lessons, bromances to sisterhoods and everything in between- the lockdown in India would become a totally surreal experience. A unique time in the world where lifelong friendships bloomed between complete strangers. Where human kindness, resilience and creativity thrived, and where lifelong memories were made of love and laughter.
Ellie
Mayur
Kali and Vineet
Alvarro
The Spanish crew
Yours truly
Claudia
Lip!
Me and my neighbours
Rishi!
Kevin, Helen and her son Sam
Arriving in Rishikesh:Final Moments pre-Lockdown in India
Alongside 60 fellow travellers, I arrived in Rishikesh just before the full lockdown in India, on one of the last trains before the suspension of the national rail network.
Backpackers from all parts of the world were arriving at Indian Culture Hostel. Across the open grounds, anxious rumours over police brutality and fines spread. While small groups started connecting and alluding to the rise of this strange and growing virus. Whoever decided to stay knew they were taking a risk, jokes and questions circled the hostel like- How much are reparation flights!? Will there be a lockdown? How long for? Is it Corona or COVID? How will we get food? Water?
It feels surreal now, to reminisce on meeting these strangers at a new hostel in Rishikesh. We didn’t know the extent of what was coming yet. But, in these short final moments of freedom before lockdown, a community vibe was starting to build.
The Beginning of the Lockdown in India
3 days later, on March 22nd, 2020, the hostel gathered together on an Indian summer evening in the backyard. We’d heard of a global clapping celebration taking place and started cheering loudly together for the brave medical workers that were battling a now, global pandemic. Over the mountains surrounding our hostel, we could hear echoes from other villages of people clapping together in joyful solidarity.
We formed a large circle in the yoga shala where our host announced that the national lockdown would begin in 4 hours. That we would not be allowed to leave the hostel at all, or risk spreading Covid. He also informed us that police would guard the streets with bamboo sticks.
Ummm okay?
I’m used to meeting travellers and waving goodbye to them 2 or 3 days later. But this was different. A new family of strangers were being forced to live together in our home away from home.
At this point, we had only been told of a 3-week lockdown. Despite troublesome times, we raised our chai teas and cheered to our new reality.
Despite the uncertainty, hysteria and cramped conditions with 60 people in a small amount of space, I could not help but feel joyful. I thanked the universe for leading me to this group of unique individuals.
How did we eat and sleep during the lockdown in India?
Rishikesh is an alcohol and meat-free spiritual hub in India. Plus, the suspension of the rail network meant food was limited.
So thank f*** for our 10 awesome staff members, at Indian Culture. All aged in their early 20s, they somehow managed to feed all 60 humans a healthy 3 meals a day!
Cooking full time, 7 days a week, for 70 rupees (roughly 70p) per meal, it was perfect for the backpacker budgets. For lunch and dinner, we mainly ate a meal of rice, dal and chapatis. Which sometimes felt like a rich and beans episode of I’m a Celebrity Get Me Out Of Here! While in the mornings we could enjoy aloo paratha (the best) or puri bhaji. However, as time went on, and more people started to head back to their home countries, the chefs gained some more capacity for creativity!
With our now restricted diet ( and cutlery) we ate with our hands from reused plates made of bamboo leaves. The group squeezed tightly around makeshift wooden tables. Waiting for seconds while dreaming about our favourite foods- (I had pizza subconsciously on my mind most of the time!) But, we sat joyfully at meal times together, building friendships over good food and laughter.
My favourite- aloo paratha!Veggie burgers and friesPaneer butter masalaGood thali with paneer!Puri bhaji
Each room, was a compact 6-person mixed dormitory, with 3 bunk beds, 6 lockers and a shared bathroom. I love my privacy, but for the next 7-weeks my room was just like the photo below- and full of 5 other people every night- we were grateful just to have curtains!
What happened during the lockdown in India?
Our family became a band of 50 backpackers and 10 staff living together full-time. Travellers from East to West, aged all the way from 11 up to 62, long-term backpackers to short-term holidaymakers, yoga trainees to bankers. We started to form a family. Reminiscing on the early days, many felt overwhelmed by this COVID situation in a foreign country. Now it feels slightly like we were living in a state of an illusion. Not quite believing what was happening.
We couldn’t go out, and needed something to do! Luckily, we had Liza, a fellow backpacker who encouraged everyone to share any skills they had with the group. Looking back now, her motivational nature was incredible as she strolled around the hostel each day announcing, “yoga in 5 minuuutes!” etc before the various classes.
1. PEACE & GROWTH happened
Mentally and physically. Firstly, being in the yoga hotspot of the world, we were blessed with 8 yoga students/teachers in the hostel. Each morning and evening, refreshing Hatha, relaxing Yin and explosive Ashtanga yoga sessions became part of daily life! I remember sweat-filled classes in the humidity of the Indian summer, soon followed by my favourite part- Savasana!
I.e the 5-minute sleeping position!
While Ravi, a humble and kind Indian man (our guru), held a weekly Satsang session over a chai and biscuits. ‘Satsang’ meaning to be true with true people, is known as an ancient spiritual practice in India. People are encouraged to sit together and engage in conversation about anything and everything. This allowed us to share our concerns, thoughts, and questions in a (pretty confusing period)- and receive some spiritual guidance from Ravi.
2. KINDNESS happened
From daily massage classes given by Mikey and Liza, to language classes in Mandarin, Spanish, English, Russian, French, Hebrew, and Italian! The lockdown for me revealed the selflessness of our new family, freely sharing any small skills they had with the group. We also banded together and prepared food for the homeless locals and hungry cows and dogs during the lockdown- see the video for more details here.
By the end of the lockdown, at least 20 people decided to utilise their new skills and gained a massage therapist certificate!
Ayurveda Massages with Liza!
Then, there were those one-off events, exhibiting genuine kindness and friendship between this new group that will stay with me forever. Random ideas were suggested, such as the heart-opening cacao and angel-walk session given by Claudia. Allowing a group of 30 people to share their thoughts and appreciation for each other, providing hugs, hot drinks, and complimenting one another.
Mandarin with Chin!And convenient Hindi classes with Gary!
On another occasion, Julien from France hosted a talk allowing everyone to dig deep into their deepest traumas and share them with the group. The rule was that everyone else would only listen in silence, allowing each participant to really open up, uninterrupted. This scheduled 1-hour talk turned into a thought-provoking 7-hour session! This was amazing to see people listening patiently, not looking at the clock and being able to learn with an open mind.
3. CREATIVITY happened- Jam Sessions and Lockdown in India Song!
From mantra chanting, creating tunes or singing our hearts out to Hallelujah, something special happened when this group was unified by music. Thomas and Kevin on the guitars, music lifted our souls through these challenging times. These moments set my heart on fire, with shakers, guitars, drums, and exotic instruments- we connected by making melodies.
The major highlight of the lockdown had to be when 4 of us sat down one night in mid-April and wrote a song. Spontaneously, we reminisced on our lockdown time together, created the lyrics, sorted a melody and recorded the song in one of the bathrooms. Finally, Marcel from Germany and I directed a video. Which has become a bit of a hit in Rishikesh and somehow in other parts of India! (I’m being spotted by complete strangers in Goa!) See Marcel’s channel here, for more ‘happily stranded’ content, and the song!
After a (busy) day of yoga, food and various classes, the evening jam sessions became the time where the magic really happened at Indian Culture.
4. CHALLENGES happened
The reality of telling a bunch of free-spirited backpackers to stop moving is absurd as it is. But, with Indian police guarding the streets, being forced to stay inside was another level of madness.
We regularly heard of beach raids or bamboo stick beatings at hidden spots in the mountains. India hey? They aggressively cleared anyone (local and foreign) breaking the strictly enforced rules and issued fines. At points, some people escaped from the hostel and returned with fractured thumbs or purple bruises. There was even a storyof foreigners having to write “I am sorry” 500 times (Harry Potter style) for strolling by the Ganga river during the lockdown.
Anyway, you can see how different people handled staying inside!
Water was also scarce… Becoming a major challenge for me as I drink A LOT of water and love a good shower. Due to the sheer number of people now staying in the hostel, we now would take small bucket baths and limit our water intake. In a country where 99million lack access to safe water, there was no guarantee the daily tanker would make it with such restrictive measures imposed on movement in India.
How long will this go on?
Like most people across the world, we really had no idea where Coronavirus would take us next. Some began replanning their travels for mid-April when India announced its first 3-week lockdown. I still thought this would all be over soon (psh!). Speculation grew massively when President Modi extended the 1st lockdown by another 3 weeks in April. Meaning our hostel members obsessively checked the news, and some panicked and booked flights home (soon followed by cancellations). Anxiously, comments floated around like “OK-only 3 more weeks!” – Though we really could not predict how long this it would be.
Anyway, here I am… Still in India in October.
5. FUN happened
We had to make this fun and had a drag race- organised by little 11-year-old Lila from London. To our surprise, 12 of the men in the group jumped at the chance and banded with women in the hostel to dress up and head for our makeshift red carpet. From Skanky Charlotte to Queen Parvati, I laughed to my heart’s content as each queen put on their performance. The photos say it all check out our winner Alexa (a.k.a Ward) and look how beautiful they all are! You can see the full video footage of the drag race here!
From howling at full moon parties to loudly singing happy birthday in 5 different languages! Some nights we would lay under the stars till the early hours, blasting tunes, singing and telling stories. Sometimes, we cooked food from our home countries allowing the staff to have a day off.
We celebrated birthdays and fell asleep outside under blankets in the yoga shelter or treehouse. Practised juggling, fed monkeys or played: THE GAME– (a makeshift version of charades) brought tears of laughter to our family. Chin from China did an impression of a potato that will kill me forever!
Paulina and ChinLate night sessionsLila turns 12! Kevin…ummKali celebrates her 35th in lockdown
We absolutely made sure we had a lot of fun in these strange circumstances!
6. A lot of CHILLING happened
I SPENT A LOT OF TIME IN HAMMOCKS. With more time in the world than I’d had since what, primary school?! Not the travel I’d imagined, jumping on buses, and trains and filling my days with exciting travel activities. Time was now completely ours to fulfil…
As if we were not already chilled enough, some members of the group gave sessions to help us relax even more! Woods and Water with Helen allowed you to relax and receive caring human touch. And, sound healing by Stefano from Somerset- calmed our minds with his majestic Tibetan singing bowls. Accompanied by Thomas playing the flute or didgeridoo and sage-scented incense you could easily get lost in the meditative serenity of sound.
7. EMOTIONAL GOODBYES happened
Some of us stayed for weeks, some for months. But something about this situation connected us deeply in our time together.
While individually we longed to travel or return home, there was a common feeling that we did not want this experience to end. We had fallen in love with strangers knowing at some point you would have to say goodbye.
And when we did it was bloody tough!
t
8. TRUE FRIENDSHIP happened
What ended up being an amazing family community was, of course, not all sunshine and rainbows.
At points we had no electricity, some days I just wanted some space to myself. Being around people 24/7 at points took its toll. Some days we ran out of water, unknowing if the water tanker would make it the next day or not due to the lockdown. On other days we debated and disagreed over Coronavirus and whether anyone should be allowed outside or not. Mosquitos were a killer and some days I simply couldn’t sleep with 6 people crowded in our hot dorm room during the Indian summer. But we didnt have a choice, we had to surrender, accept and appreciate where we were.
I’ve detailed in a previous post how the lockdown intensified my devastation following the death of George Floyd in May 2020. And how I found a sisterhood in India, meeting someone I could truly connect with and help through such an upsetting time for the black community. Check the link for my blog post on living in India as one of the few mixed/black people!
The support, kindness and trust that connected us all in lockdown made it more than worth it. From many lows (lessons) and even more highs, I feel an overwhelming feeling of gratitude for where life took me at the start of the pandemic.
A Summary of the Lockdown in India:
If you’ve made it this far, these unique moments during the lockdown in India truly opened my heart. From a group of strangers to a family of friends, we experienced love and I learned things I may never have known. From this experience, I’ve been given memories that will fill my heart with joy forever and I am nothing but grateful. Hugely thankful for a colleague who advised me to head off a month early. Blessed by the universe for bringing me and people to the same place at the same time. Thankful to Helen, Angie, Ben, Eliana, Marcel, Ilona, Sankalp and all the staff at Indian Culture who made this all possible.
Ooo and there have already been some reunions between people who went home, including my lockdown mumma and ACTUAL mum in London!
MadridFranceIn London
Post Lockdown in India: First taste of freedom!
Finally, on the 7th of May 2020, after 7 weeks of strictly being indoors, President Modi announced some ease in the lockdown restrictions. At last, we could legally go out between 7-11 am, given that we were in a green zone. Though everyone was absolutely craving the smallest bit of freedom, it was upsetting when people actually started to move on. To different hostels, different parts of town or back home!
On my first day out of isolation. Those who hadn’t taken repatriation flights home took a group trip out to the Ganga river. We’d already been in Rishikesh for over 2 months, but it felt like we didnt know the city at all! Ah, feeling the water touch my feet again, and seeing trees and other people was strangely amazing. Everyone smiled on the streets seeing different faces for the first time in over 2 months. I treated myself to a trip to a waterfall, ate a chocolate croissant and that pepperoni pizza I’d been craving! I sat in the sand and built stone towers out of colourful rocks that cover the Rishikesh beaches.
In times of uncertainty, sometimes we make the smartest decisions.
Staying in India for the Coronavirus lockdown was no doubt, one of the wisest and most life-changing decisions I have ever made. In the most unexpected circumstances, I learned so much about myself, about people and about human connection. I’d narrowly escaped lockdown in London, and have been through an amazing journey of self-love during the lockdown in India with these incredible people that I’ll remember forever.
Are we sacrificing simplicity for modern-day conveniences?
convenience and simplicity
Who doesn’t love convenience?
I know I do.
Naturally, we’re drawn to the allure of anything that makes riding the waves of life a little easier.
But are we drowning in the sea of stuff?
When I reminisce on my corporate 9-5 life (or **correction** nine-midnight life) one thing comes clear- I was drowning. Drowning in workloads, clutter, opinions, takeaways, personal troubles and cigarettes.
If you’ve read any of my previous articles, you know that during this period, my mental health sank. I’d ignore what was really going on with me and wrap a plaster on my issues by consuming more. I’d read more articles, ingest more information, buy more stuff, and eat more sh*t to make myself feel better. When we are caught in the chaos, all we want is the simple answer.
I was convinced that these things would help me through the rut and make life more convenient and easier!
In reality, I was only adding more weight to my anchor.
The Allure of Convenience
These days, I can have my favourite meal cooked for me at the click of a button and delivered within an hour. I can order that gift I forgot for my colleague’s leaving party via next-day delivery. If I ‘need’ a new outfit for an event, I have access to a selection of clothing apps that even allow me to return for free if they don’t fit.
Our new world is synonymous with convenience, and we love it- why wouldn’t we?
In this week’s post, I want to talk about the paradox of convenience and simplicity and the impacts on our mental and physical health- particularly why more convenience doesn’t necessarily equal simpler living.
In fact, these modern-day conveniences seem to make us lazier, less grateful and more entitled. From where I stand, for every new stride we take towards more technological advancement and convenient living, we take two steps back. From brain-dead scrolling to an epidemic of loneliness and dissatisfaction, we’re in a dichotomy to balance simplicity and convenience.
For us to unlock the secrets of a simpler life, I think we should learn how to strike the balance between convenience and simplicity.
Convenience vs Simplicity: A Paradox
In 2026, creating a simpler life might be on your list of desires- especially with how noisy life is at the moment. Somewhere in this pursuit, we’ve been duped into thinking that more convenience will bring us more simplicity.
How does this tie in with our general happiness?
Gratitude:
“None is more impoverished than the one who has no gratitude. Gratitude is a currency that we can mint for ourselves, and spend without fear of bankruptcy”
– Fred de witt van Amburgh
I still remember the 30 movies we had on video cassette and, excluding channels 1-5, that was all we had to watch. I remember in those days, just how little we’d argue over what to watch. Every single one of those videos was loved and appreciated, even if I’d seen them 50+ times before.
Fast forward to 2026, my family spend more time picking a film than actually watching it. With instant access to applications from Netflix to Prime to NowTV, HBO and all the iplayers- how can one pick?
Besides, once we have, it seems we all end up on the sofa staring at our phone screens anyway.
Sound like simplicity?
Mental Health
Further, the more we rely on convenience, the more we lose control over our lives and our ability to think and do things for ourselves. The apps take care of that now!
From movies to music, travel, food and money. With so many options available, we are often left feeling overwhelmed and paralyzed by choice.
One of the major reasons to travel long-term is because it helps us realise how dependent we are on home comforts like technology and social media. Living this way, allows us to realise that joy comes in random moments. Like a good chat with a stranger, appreciating the food that’s available, or having more time to simply enjoy.
In the process of attaining more convenience, we’re moving further and further away from the things that ACTUALLY make life simple & joyful.
Environmental Impact:
On the topic of nature. Convenience culture also hurts the environment and, therefore us. From single-use plastic to excessive packaging, the convenience economy generates a lot of waste. This waste is harming the environment and even affecting our health in the long run. I’d want to go into this point deeper in another post, so for now, consider the thought:
Is this thing I’m buying actually going to add any value to my life? Or just more trash to the planet?
Finding the Balance
“Acknowledging the good that you already have in your life is the foundation for all abundance”- Eckhart Tolle
While more choices are exciting and equally destructive to our joy and gratitude.
Now I’m not saying convenience is all bad. But considering all, are our lives really becoming simpler with added convenience? Or a heavier anchor pulling us deeper into our own insecurities?
Instead, we can look for a simpler life by reducing our reliance on convenience and being mindful of our choices. We can start by taking small steps like reducing our use of single-use plastics or choosing to walk instead of using a car.
Even these small changes can help us lead a more fulfilling and simpler life.
Final thought: Inconvenience
Are we here for it all to be easy? Or are we here for an adventure?
When I’m in London, it’s easy to sink into the belief that consuming more things on social media and delivery apps makes my life more enjoyable. That everyone else owns things I desire. But that instant gratification leads to stress and anxiety. As more time passes, I become impatient and struggle with delayed gratification, leading to a lack of peace and feeling satisfied.
My life now, is a more inconvenient one, but one of adventure.
In living without constant access to convenience, I am challenged in ways that push me outside of my comfort zone, which allows me to learn and grow. As well as encountering more adventures! In doing so, I take a sense of ownership for who I am as inconvenience challenges me to overcome my edges and fears.
I challenge you to ask yourself: Can I reject convenience? At least somewhere in my life?
Can I find this same thing 2nd-hand? Through platforms like FB Marketplace & Olio?
Could less convenience create more wisdom, growth and simplicity for myself?
Take some time to reflect on these questions, and consider making small changes to simplify your life. You might be surprised at the positive impact it can have.
Did you enjoy todays article? If so please consider buying me a coffee to support my work. P.S. If you’re about to enter a new chapter and want support, I have a few 1:1 coaching slots available. Thank you for being here and see you next time.
Hola, Sophia here! A former career girl turned slow traveller, writer, and thought partner with a passion for helping people reconnect with themselves and their purpose. After years of living a cluttered, fear-driven life, I started travelling solo and slow on a one-way ticket.Most travellers like to tick boxes and follow itineraries. I like to go slow, explore and improvise- unveiling the magic and lessons from a simple life at home and on the road.
Quitting my job to travel taught me that the most valuable lessons often lie beyond the comfort zone.
This month marked one year since I took the plunge and quit my job to travel on a one-way ticket. On my anniversary, I ended up in Jardin, Colombia, resting in a hammock at a homestay overlooking the world’s longest mountain range. With the pink sky dissolving over the Andes at sunrise, I was greeted by a deep sense of joy in my stomach at how much life can change in 12 months.
Recounting the adventures of yesteryear; I’d had my first taste of volunteering long-term, hiked Machu Picchu, camped for 2 months in Scotland, spent Christmas in a cabin in the Ecuadorian jungle with my best friend, and, was visited by multiple loved ones in different corners of the world.
I would not face the dreaded Monday return to the office tomorrow.
While this journey hasn’t been without its challenges, each step has gifted me lessons I’ll cherish forever. Here are five of the most beautiful truths I’ve discovered since leaping into the unknown.
If you’re dreaming about trading your 9-to-5 for the open road—or simply exploring what it means to live on your terms— here are five beautiful lessons I’ve discovered along the way.
What I’ve Learned Since I Quit My Job to Travel:
1. Taking the leap is the hardest part.
So many of us have things we want to do that may require taking a leap into the unknown. But more often than not, fear gets in the way of our desires and we put off any major lifestyle change. What if I fail, what if it doesn’t work out? Don’t worry I get it.
But, what if… What if it all worked out?
Even after years of travelling long-term, I still get nervous each time I book a one-way flight to a new destination. The last year especially has taught me it may work out or it may not, either way, you will learn something that will lead you in the right direction.
Life is either a daring adventure or nothing at all”
Helen Keller
2. There’s no point worrying about tomorrow- It doesn’t exist.
A year ago, I realised that everything I thought I wanted- was meaningless if it meant being miserable today.
Now I am not saying don’t have goals, I’m saying money comes and goes, but time doesn’t.
Sh*t, what if your quest for happiness ‘one day’doesn’t work out?
Battling between our future wants and our present desires can feel like a lifelong struggle. From deciding what to study at college and university, to dating, to career decisions and plans. We are taught to be focused on the end goal, rather than enjoying the process. The last year has taught me that modern-day society’s obsession with ‘one day’ has destroyed our appreciation for the simple things today.
I know, reality check Sophia, “we all gotta pay bills!”
*Coughs*- An even bigger reality check is that life is short and could end at any moment.
By not taking risks and staying in your comfort zone, you are living in the fantasy land of tomorrow.Can we really bank on the illusion that if we work hard enough today, one day we’ll feel such ‘happiness’?
I quit my job to travel because I noticed too many days turning into weeks, weeks into months and months, into years. Hoping that ‘one day’ we’ll be able to do the things we really want. There really is no time like the present!
3. We have a lot of STUFF to let go of- on minimalist living.
When I randomly stumbled across the groundbreaking ‘Minimalists-Less is Now’ documentary on Netflix in late 2021, I had no idea that the concept of minimalism would so drastically impact my life. The show sparked a question:
“Rather than working harder to make more money (to spend on more stuff)…
How would life look if I really spent less?”
The question sparked more questions. Such as: What if I didn’t aim to buy a house? Or if I didn’t need a new outfit for every event? What if I skipped the event altogether? What if I prioritised my time and money for the things I really want?
Over time I’ve realised that a life of forever chasing and only wanting more material goods- means we will never feel like we are enough, or that we have enough. As such, the cycle continues. Essentially, the documentary made me start thinking about what I really wanted in life. And questioning if I really needed all the stuff I’d accumulated. The last year has taught me how to let go of a lot (physically and mentally). Particularly those things I’ve been told to want and allowed me to create space for more things that make life simply joyful.
“I’ve found that the less stuff I own, the less my stuff owns me.”
Nathan W. Morris.
Similar to travel, what if you didn’t aim to go everywhere and see everything? In the last year, I’ve taken a less-is-more approach– by travelling slower, staying in places for longer, volunteering to save on accommodation and avoiding eating out too much or buying unnecessary things. Besides my backpack being much lighter and my travel budget lasting longer. Contrarily I have found the experience to be much richer by spending less.
Since I quit my job to travel, I’ve mostly avoided fast flights, 5* hotels and private taxis from A to B. The minimalist travel approach prioritises balance to stay grateful. Meaning when those luxuries do come along- you really appreciate them. To emphasise, this lifestyle often means choosing community over convenience in my travels. Such as riding public transport, carpooling, staying with locals and volunteering. But it’s these times when my stories and adventures come to life.
Money makes life more convenient, but it doesn’t make you rich.
4. We need to stop limiting ourselves
Boxed into the corporate structure, it became too easy to believe I was good for nothing as I’d let my value be defined solely by my career. Every time my team missed a deadline or a client complained about going over budget, I felt like I’d failed. With my deteriorating self-esteem, I wondered how I could possibly be of value to anyone.
But what I didn’t know at the time, is that our value is not determined by ‘what we do’, though this seems to be the single most defining factor about ourselves in Western society. Beyond job titles, we all have our own intrinsic value to uncover within ourselves. When we give ourselves time to explore that, we can tap into the full versions of ourselves.
Since I quit my job to travel- volunteering abroad has taught me that we can all be of value to someone.
For example, you may be that helping hand to a struggling single mother who can not afford a childminder. Or the company that a lonely older person needs Or as I ended up on my first volunteering trip to Portugal– someone could cut vegetables and lift objects for someone with severe arthritis.
I’ve learnt, the system has taught us to believe that we are less than we are. But, by volunteering abroad, you will discover more about your value than you could have ever imagined.
5. The infinite power of kindness
At some point, after I quit my job to travel, I was sitting and having a coffee in Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria. It was one of those slow days with nothing on my agenda when I noticed a group drinking wine and laughing next to me. Suddenly, one of the group members got up and wandered off after receiving a call.
His energy switched instantly from joyful to distressed. However, his male friends looked over unimpressed and shook their heads. By all the snot and tears, I could see he was clearly upset, and as I was doing nothing with my day, I went over with a tissue to check on him. Why not?
The man was incredibly grateful, and we shared a hug as he wiped away his tears.
When I came back to sit down, his group of friends looked over and thanked me for this simple act of kindness. We got talking, which led them to follow my blog, they also all invited me to stay with them if I ever needed a room in their countries.
Kindness can look like giving a tissue, a hug, or a donation to someone. Either way, we can always give something to someone. The act of slow travelling has not only given me more time for myself but also more time for others. Through volunteering and daily acts of service.
So, for anyone who believes in the law of attraction (how can you not?)– what we give out will come back to us. If you seek love, then first you must become love. Or if you seek friendship, work on becoming your own best friend. If you seek kindness, then give kindness out.
What has travel taught you about life?
The last year has taught me a lot.
But most importantly, kindness is infinite and giving to others radiates us and continues the cycle of kindness. When it comes your way, pay it forward. Reflecting on this past year, I realize that the biggest rewards come from stepping outside our comfort zones.
Quitting my job wasn’t just about traveling—it was about reclaiming my life. It was about letting go of fear, embracing uncertainty, and choosing to live in alignment with my values.
If there’s one thing I hope you take from this, it’s that life is too short to postpone your dreams. Whether it’s traveling, starting a passion project, or simply slowing down, the time to begin is now.
As for me, I’m still learning, growing, and discovering new truths every day. And if there’s one thing I know for sure, it’s this: the journey is always worth it.
Sophia Howard
Sophia here- welcome to my blog! I love slow travelling, 90s RnB, festivals and sunsets. I quit my job and left the rat race behind to travel the world solo and at my own pace. A proud foodie and mindful travel advocate, in pursuit of travelling for social good and inspiring others to live their dreams. I would love you to join me on this journey to travel as a lifestyle…
It’s around this time of year, that we start to feel a little down as the January blues set in. While the dark, cold nights can be depressing, they can also be an excellent opportunity to reevaluate our plans for the coming year! If you’re wondering how you can travel more and spend less in 2023, please read on.
In the last 10 years of travelling long-term, I’ve become accustomed to meeting people on the road who want to travel more.
The problem: they don’t know how.
Almost everyone says the same. “Soph, I would love to travel more, but… But… I cannot afford it”. With a hopeless and curious look in their eyes. Wondering how I could possibly be travelling this long term. I’m often accused of having a financial donor or a sugar daddy funding my travels
But the thing that usually surprise people is: although I travel full-time, I don’t travel that often.
Right now, for example, I’m enjoying a slow Sunday, sitting in a cabin surrounded by nature atop a remote Ecuadorian mountain in Banos de Agua Santa. I’ve been on the road in South America for 4 months so far and I’m currently on my 9th week in Ecuador alone.
So no mum, this is not just a phase- I don’t plan on ever returning to my old life in London.
I’m in it for the long run- living a slow, simple and happy life on the road.
This guide contains affiliate links
Because when we go slow, we give ourselves a chance to appreciate all the joy and beauty that surrounds us.
These days, I enjoy waking up without alarms in unfamiliar destinations and making myself fresh juice with local fruits. Slowly strolling around my new area, sipping a coffee from a local cafe on a quaint square and saying “Buenas Dias” to my new Ecuadorian neighbours. I like getting familiar with the local community. Spending time in distant neighbourhoods and making friends in corners across the world.
“But Sophia!” you say, ready to slap me with a reality check.
Before you jump down my throat, I’d like to remind you that you do not need an unlimited bucket of money or a wealthy sugar daddy/mummy to fund your travels. Travelling the world with little or no money is possible. It may not be always glamorous, but it is possible.
Again: you do not need to be rich to travel.
I’ll explain.
Though, so many of us decide to travel. It seems we miss the entire point of why we wanted to travel in the first place.
Somewhere between the 200th and 1000th pose in front of another pretty landmark, it gets pretty boring…
It’s amazing how many backpackers I meet, spending their ‘break’ rushing from place to place. Waking up at the crack of dawn or jumping on flights to tick tourist sites off their bucket lists. The same people then return home, exhausted and depressed because they’ve run out of money and have to go back to work.
(A lot of the time, to earn more money so they can travel again).
What’s crazy is that every one of those people could have made their 1-month budget last 3 months. Or a 6-month budget last a year if only they’d slowed their travels down. But as most people are so set on getting back to their ‘normal lives’, they can’t comprehend the idea of spending 3 months in Bulgaria or a year in India.
Vice versa, the travellers I meet with the slow approach are those who are relaxed, content, free and open to the world and its possibilities. I know people who’ve entered a country with $500 to their name and are still travelling 3 years later. I’ve known people who’ve left their normal jobs to travel and ended up living on the Galapagos Islands as a diving instructor.
These people prove that when we adopt a slow travel mindset we can make our travel dreams a reality.
I learnt this during COVID and living in India in 2020. That travelling long-term is a lot simpler than people think. My life looked a lot different just a year ago. And I can tell you my friends, the sweet gifts of living and travelling slowly are so worth it.
Slow travel is a powerful offshoot of the slow food movement that began in Italy in the `1980s. As such, it’s a mindset that prioritises quality over quantity and takes the less is more approach. Slow travel removes the “I’ve been to 20, 30 or 40+ countries” attitude, and allows us to structure our travels in a way that focuses on the journey over the destination.
Slow travel is cultural travel. It takes us back to our nomadic origins, to how we once travelled before the modern age of fast flights and life at the click of a button. Its prioritises cultural experiences, like staying with locals and learning traditions, over staying at a 5* resort with a heated pool. This style of travel focuses on gratitude and approaches travel with a less is more mindset. For example, accidentally stumbling across a beautiful remote location with a hostel not even listed on booking.com, over of booking an all-inclusive tour in advance.
Slow travel, therefore, is a big f*** you to the glamourous Instagram channels and Trip Advisor-style blogging platforms. The ones that promote jumping from place to place, seeing a whole country in a week and ticking off the list of overcrowded must-sees.
My Ultimate Hack: To Travel More, Travel Less and Travel Slow.
In an age of speed, I began to think, nothing could be more invigorating than going slow
Pico Iyer, The Art of Stillness
Because by travelling less, we put precedence on learning, connecting and creating with the land and people around us. Instead of speedily ticking things off our bucket lists. By slowing down, we connect with nature, people, history and culture in our destinations, and reap more of the benefits of travel we set out to achieve in the first place.
Like anything, there may not be a ‘right way to travel’. But I strongly believe rushing around stops us from making the most of our time in foreign destinations.
So here we are my friends, join me as we dive into the world of slow travel, prioritising our time and letting go of where we should be or what we should be doing. Here’s my ultimate hack guide on how we can all travel more in 2023.
I’ll assume by now you’re all fired up and ready to go. Wondering how you too can travel long-term and apply the slow travel mindset to your next adventure. Since each and every slow travel venture is unique, writing you a prescriptive guide on exactly how to slow travel would be a waste of time. It’s a process of trial and error, and I’m also still working on becoming a better slow traveller myself.
But, what this guide will do, is open your eyes to a world of possibilities. The travel hacks detailed below are those that anyone can use, to make travel a reality for you in 2023.
1. First Things First: Alternative Accommodations
As with anywhere in the world, be it the ‘normal’ or travel life, it’s likely that your biggest living cost will be your accommodation. As such, to make the long-term travel lifestyle possible, the first thing we need to consider is alternative and nifty ways to lower our living costs.
I have a big list of accommodation-saving tips. I’m in the process of writing a post with all of these tips, so for now, I’ll leave you with these thoughts.
– Backpacker Hostels and Homestays
The go-to option for backpackers is to stay in hostels. With 6-8 people in a room, I understand why someone people are still apprehensive about giving hostels a go. For some reason, there’s this strange rumour that all hostels are dirty or unsafe, which couldn’t be further from the truth. In November, I stayed at this place for £9 a night in central Cuenca! Clean, comfy, warm and a great place to meet other travellers.
Whether you are a 1st-time backpacker or a retiree, backpacker hostels are a great way to meet people from across the world. From boutique and budget hostels to homestays, there are safe, clean and affordable accommodations around the world.
– Save on accommodation by volunteering
Volunteering via Worldpackers or Workaway has become my favourite way to save on accommodation and food as I travel. While also learning new skills and making connections across the world, volunteering is a great way to travel for good- more about this in my next point.
– Housesitting and petsitting
I got to dip my toes in the housesitting gig when a volunteering position offered me a 3 week’s stay at their property while they went on holiday. Looking after 6 cats and 2 dogs in a big house in rural Bulgaria taught me so much about the joy of simply being. Sites such as TrustedHousesitters and UKHousesitters, have become popular in recent years and give us the freedom of time in the destinations we visit.
– Couchsurfing
When Gemma from Greece let me stay in her one-bedroom apartment in Thessaloniki, I was shocked by her kindness as she let me have her bedroom and took the sofa. On my first trip to India, I was overjoyed when Raj, a local businessman let me volunteer in one of his clothing factories in Tamil Nadu. Couchsurfing has restored my faith in human kindness time and time again. Though it has been around for a long time and the platform’s popularity has decreased, in my eyes it’s still the best way to meet locals and gain local tips- more on this here.
– Van/Boat life
I adored travelling off-road in a friend’s campervan through Scotland for 6 weeks in 2022. Imagine having your accommodation and transport all rolled into one, slowly exploring the road less travelled. Getting off the beaten path is one of the sweet joys of travelling slowly, but your own vehicle can take you to unknown and untouched destinations.
I’ve not sailed much, but it seems like the epitome of slow travel. This year I’d love to give it a go and float peacefully around the world or work on cruise ships.
Camping/Campervanning around Scotland for 6 weeks.
A core value of slow travel is getting involved in the local community and leaving the places we visit in a better state than when we got there. One way to slow down our travels and give back to the destinations we visit is by volunteering. Before I discovered volunteering abroad, I was caught in the cycle of travelling, returning home, working, travelling, returning home etc.
This is because, unknowingly, I’d made my travels all about me, and all about money.
Money used to dictate where I could go and what I could do. But, I’ve learnt in recent years that kindness pays off, and building community empowers us all. By volunteering in the destinations we visit, we not only utilise travel for good, but we can also save on accommodation and often, on food. From volunteering on permaculture projects in Bulgaria to helping a disabled author proofread her books in Portugal, I’ve found volunteering to be a refreshing way to travel and create authentic connections by removing money from the situation.
Try a Worldpackers membership for accommodation-free travel!
While I’m reasonably comfortable with finding volunteering opportunities by just showing up in a new little town and checking the local notice boards in a cafe. For first-timers, I’d suggest using Worldpackers or Workaway for access to 1000s of opportunities across the world. Using my links will give you a $10 discount or additional months added to annual memberships!
Loving the journey is a core principle of the slow travel mindset. By travelling on land, we choose enjoyment over speed, soaking up picturesque journeys and en-route stops along the way. What’s more, we get a real taste of local life. Rather than flying over vast and beautiful landscapes or taxi driving through cities, we take buses or trains to enjoy all the beauty along the way. This way we save money and get a real taste of local life.
4. Have a Plan, Don’t be Attached To It
A crucial mindset shift from fast to slow travel is to let go of your itinerary. I used to be the girl who planned every week of her travels ahead of time. A rigid line-by-line Excel spreadsheet had my travels to India in 2020 laid out for 6 weeks.
Buuuuuut, of course, when the pandemic hit in 2020, I threw my beautifully crafted document in the virtual bin and ended up staying in India for 9 months…
Empty Goan beaches in India, 2020
These days, I barely plan beyond the next day. Because I’ve learnt that strict plans limit our freedoms and apply rigidity to our day-to-day. As such, it’s good to have a loose plan and a rough idea of where you’d like to go. With enough flexibility to follow new paths that may appear to be free for the plan to deviate and flexible enough to follow new paths. Which means giving up the ‘shoulds’ in life. Where we ‘should’ be or what we ‘should’ be doing and simply letting life pan out the way it’s meant to.
The next level of slow travel. When we begin to let go of the ‘shoulds’ and simply enjoy the time we have granted ourselves to see the world. This is where we find the real freedom and liberation slow travel provides. The freedom of mind to simply wander, explore, and enjoy the beauty of the world without plans.
5. Live Like (or with!) a Local
From a simple smile at a stranger to utilising Couchsurfing.com, my journal is filled with beautiful stories from meeting locals across the world. This one time in Scotland, I wandered into a cafe and got talking to a friendly member of staff about my travels.
Before long, this friendly Scottish waitress and I were laughing, the conversation was flowing and she invited me and my friend back to hers for a cup of tea. We ended up staying with her for 2 nights and a friendship blossomed between the 3 of us.
So much so, she then decided to join us on our camping trip for 3 weeks! Directing us to the best camping spots, waterfalls and local shops and restaurants in southern Scotland.
Rather than eating at a top 10 restaurant, I find much more joy in meeting a local and enjoying a home-cooked meal. Then, waking up the next day wandering to their favourite nature spot down an unidentified road.
This mindset shift from tourist to traveller turns your plans into possibilities. It gives up our itinerary of having to do everything and see everything, skipping the tourist-hounding hotspots. Reminding me of the simple magic of life on the road.
When you next get on the road, let yourself enjoy the mystical magic and an enhancing thrill of living without plans and stepping into the unknown.
Slow travel is the art of being, and the greatest hack to see and appreciate all the beauty of the world.
Over the years I have travelled the world, I’ve eaten excellent food and seen many incredible landmarks. But even after a year in India or 3 months in Ecuador, I still feel like I’ve barely scratched the surface. Slow travel keeps us curious and revitalised by the world. Now I have homes and friends all over the world, and I’ve still never felt ‘done’ with anywhere.
Slow travel emphasises the joy of being and the power of community and kindness. We all have something to give, be it a room, a skill, an inspiring conversation or a homecooked meal.
Be mindful, slow travel IS budget travel. And to truly enjoy the world, we need to get into the local swing of things and practice the joy of simply being. With so much to see, feel and learn, I often say we are human beings and not human doings and we deserve the time to enjoy the worlds beauty.
So while Trip Advisor would have you running around, waking up at the crack of dawn to tick off all must-see places or top 10 restaurants you must try, you may return home more exhausted, and a lot more broke than necessary. Mix it up this year. With a slow travel mindset and by staying in one place for longer, we can make our travel dreams a reality. When you next hit the road, practice travelling slowly by implementing a variety of these tips. With a little creativity and a more local attitude, we can travel more and for longer on relatively little money.
The world is big and life is short. For the time we have here, let it be beautiful.
With low European prices, quirky hostels, charming towns and ample nature, turn down the tempo with these 8 ideas to experience slow travel in Bulgaria.
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Gliding over the golden rooftops of central Sofia, I stared out of the plane window and pondered on this next step of my travels. As I’d quit my job in London a few months earlier, I landed in Bulgaria without plans or a return ticket. The main purpose of my trip was to visit a friend and I arrived in a quiet Sofia at the cusp of the spring season.
Landing in Bulgaria (and Eastern Europe) for the first time, I was both excited and sceptical. With the occasional report of racism in Bulgarian football and the wider media, I’d imagined some funny looks and snowy scenes in a potentially more hostile country.
But over the course of my travels this year, partly solo, partly with friends, partly volunteering abroad on projects with Workaway and Worldpackers. Those preconceived notions of Eastern Europe changed (drastically). So much so that I ended up extending my trip to slow travel in Bulgaria for 2.5 months this year. I fell in love not just with Bulgaria’s ancient monasteries and stadiums, but with the luscious hiking trails, unique local dishes, traditional dress, quaint book shops, and most importantly, the warm hospitality of the Bulgarian locals. From the Black Sea to the majestic mountains, Bulgaria became the cornerstone of my European travels this year.
A few people have asked about my visit to Bulgaria and my recommendations for places to visit. So here we are, my travel highlights from this beautiful country and my recommendations to inspire you to slow travel in Bulgaria.
Slow Travel Bulgaria: A Brief on Culture and History
Nudged between Romania, Greece and the Black sea, Bulgaria is a charming and geographically small country, known as the “big brother” of the Balkan region. Perhaps, due to its reign as the oldest nation in Europe, Bulgaria has kept its name since 681 when the country was first established. From there, this small country’s history blends a concoction of Roman and Greek empires. Plus, an emergence in 1908, after nearly five centuries of Ottoman rule.
Bulgaria boasts a mix of Western and Eastern cultures. Evident in the country’s cuisine, architecture and locals who carry tradition in their language and fashion. No doubt, you may feel challenged at points with menus in the Cyrillic alphabet. Be prepared to use Google Translate and soak up Bulgarian culture in country that protects its language against Western infiltration.
Slow travel in Bulgaria means immersing yourself in the local culture and enjoying the simple things in life. It is about taking time to engage local people, getting outdoors and exploring without a fixed plan. It’s about having fun while volunteering on a local project or snorkelling on the black sea. There are many ways to slow down your pace of life and let yourself enjoy Bulgaria at its best.
Slow Travel Bulgaria: How to get there and how long to stay?
For those without an EU passport (UK citizens now included) Bulgaria is a perfect crossroads country as it is outside of the Schengen zone. Long-term travellers can enjoy 90 days of visa-free stay and it’s easy to reach Bulgaria by bus & train routes from Croatia, Turkey, Romania and Germany.
Train connections between Bulgaria and Europe are shown on this map by Seat61.
Additionally, I used FlixBus multiple times during my 6 months of backpacking in Europe this year. A reliable coach company offering comfortable coach journeys across Europe. Below you can see how well-connected Sofia is to Western Europe and to the East towards Turkey and Asia!
Flixbus map showing bus connections across Europe.
Bulgaria is a great place to travel slow. By taking your time you’ll discover lush hiking trails, lively local cuisine and more than 700 mineral hot springs. For all this, I would suggest at least 3 weeks in Bulgaria to really get a feel for this country. From cultural Plovdiv to historic Veliko Tarnovo and bustling Sofia, discover this generous slow travel destination, comparatively untouched by tourism.
To this day, when asked, “is Bulgaria worth visiting?“
I’d answer “100% yes” every time.
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1. Slowly wander the streets of Bulgaria’s Capital- Sofia
It wasn’t long before I realised what my best friend meant when she’d described Sofia as a “slow, sleepy city”. Immediately, my senses widened as I strolled along the calm and pretty Vitosha Boulevard. A wide 2.7km pedestrian street that runs through Sofia’s historic centre.
A scenic stroll will lead you through this capital’s rich cultural history, beautiful architecture and abundance of food options. I think the best way to discover Sofia is on foot or by electronic scooter or via the efficient (and very low-cost) metro service for further distances.
Beyond the Ladies’ street market and blue & yellow tulip gardens. You might find the great St. Alexander Nevski Cathedral in the Serdika neighbourhood- reigning as Sofia’s most iconic landmark. In addition to golden and green rooftops, the towers are adorned with mosaic ceilings. Further, discover Saint Nikolas Russian Church and the Rotunda Church of St George- The oldest building in Sofia.
Nearby, there are plenty of open green spaces and street performers along the boulevard. Plus, a number of enticing restaurants, and great shopping opportunities. Floating around this city is a delight for food, art and book lovers like me. Float around the streets and enjoy quaint reading cafes or join a local food tour to sample Bulgarian cuisine.
2. Retreat to one of Bulgaria’s 700 Mineral Hotsprings
Unlike Budapest, Bulgaria does not boast about its impressive 700+ mineral springs across the country (no shade Hungary). As such, most tourists do not know such places exist and they remain affordable, and mainly catered to locals. It is known that the mineral springs have been around since Roman times and were used for therapeutic and healing purposes.
Enjoy steaming hot bathtubs and ice-cold plunge pools for an affordable price. Try to visit Bulgaria’s hot springs on a weekday to avoid crowds. I recommend the Kotvata Mineral Spa Centre costing only 20levs (£8ish). It’s accessible with a one-hour drive or 2-hour bus for the more budget/adventurous traveller. Conveniently, this bus runs from the Central bus station in Sofia to Dupnitsa every 60 minutes. And from the city of Dupnitsa, you can take a direct public bus to Sapareva Banya every 30 minutes.
Enjoy jacuzzis, and whirlpools, plus food, drinks and herbal teas in the remote and beautiful scenery of the geothermal springs. Plus a great number of RnB and reggae tracks played while we enjoyed a drink on the sunbeds.
Tip: I made the mistake of wearing silver to the hot springs. The waters are filled with sulphur and other minerals, so remove all jewellery to avoid bronzing!
Joanna- enjoying some sun
3. Visit the Old Medieval Capital of Europe’s Oldest Country
Top of my slow travel Bulgaria list has to be exploring the Medieval capital of Veliko Tarnovo. A green and mountainous town where an array of restaurants line cobbled streets and medieval architecture. I jumped for joy as the sun shone brightly over the surrounding hills of this Northern Bulgarian town.
Also known as the ‘City of the Tsars’ (or kings), derived from the grand Tsaravets Fortress in the centre of Veliko Tarnovo. The tower is shouldered by the Yantra river (the largest in Northern Bulgaria) and sits among acres of green hills and traditional townhouses.
The fortress costs 10 levs to enter. Purchase tickets from the office outside of the main fortress gate or online!
Tsaravets Fortress in Veliko Tarnovo
Top suggestions for Veliko Tarnovo- My Favourite Place in Bulgaria
Firstly, soak up the beauty with a coffee (particularly the cappuccino) and breakfast/lunch at Rich’s restaurant. An affordable and local family restaurant with stunning views. Also, spend some time wandering up to the Tsaravets fortress and enjoy a tasteful lunch at one of the local restaurants in the traditional homes located on Gurko Street. Be sure to venture along one of the hiking routes towards ‘the swing of love’ located in the Garga Bair area- there’s a very good blog on reaching the swing here. Otherwise enjoy a drink and a meal at a local restaurant in the centre of Veliko Tarnovo. Finally, the ‘Hippie bar’ in the centre of town runs exciting events. I enjoyed arandom jazz festival on the streets!
Traditional homes built into the mountains in Veliko Tarnovo
4. Experience Food and Street Art in the Culture Capital of Plovdiv
Oh wonderful Plovdiv, I miss you.
I mean, Plovdiv and I did not get off to a great start. When we missed our turn and pulled onto a highway, my friend and I were stopped by the police as we arrived… Hmmm.
Why? I don’t know…
Luckily, we left unscathed and headed to the historical centre where we discovered Plovdiv’s cobbled quiet streets occupied with quaint restaurants and vibrant artwork. Immediately, I could see why Plovdiv had been named the European Capital of Culture in 2019. Leisurely locals cross paths in small squares and parks. There are street food stands, ancient stadiums and artsy old towns, plus 7 stunning hilltops surrounding the city that make for a great walk.
An easy day trip from Sofia, but I recommend staying at least 3 days in a city whose history dates back to Roman times. Additionally, Plovdiv claims to be the oldest continuously inhabited city in Europe, with evidence of settlements dating back to 6000 BC!
You can enter picturesque old wooden merchant houses and see the roman theatre that is still in use almost 2000 years after its construction! The hidden charm of Bulgaria is clear when you consider this theatre was not discovered until 1970 following a landslide!
Plovdiv also exhibits some wonderful street art.
The photos do the talking, on every corner of this pretty city you will find magnificent murals to admire.
5. Experience Rural Bulgarian life Volunteering on Local Projects
If you’re really travelling slowly, Workaway and Worldpackers are helpful volunteering platforms with a number of volunteering opportunities in Bulgaria. I landed, by pure serendipity, in the arms of Veliko Tarnovo’s environmental projects. By chance, 2 volunteering positions messaged me about helping them with their permaculture initiatives within days of each other.
It was not in my plans to visit, but I could not ignore these 2 coincidental signs!
Some early mornings, I started tending to the soil. Still exhausted and wanting to go back to bed, I watched older local women (commonly named ‘babas’) spend hours of their day taking care of their vegetable patches and watering plants.
For hours this went on, and the babas left a fascinating impression of patience and dedication on me. I loved how they showed an appreciation for the ground and a lifestyle of living harmoniously with nature. Their local attitude to fruit and vegetables adds to the quality of the food, which is definitely enhanced by the climate. I had no idea a tomato could taste so good.
How to find volunteering projects: Check out Workaway and Worldpackers to travel without paying for accommodation! Volunteer and take part in exciting projects. My Worldpackers link currently gives a $10 discount and an extra 3 months if you purchase an annual membership before 31st December. That’s 15 months of accommodation-free travel!
6. Indulge at a Local Taverna and Taste some Rakia
The food in Bulgaria is truly ‘East-Meets-West’ and the locals add a lot of cheese and yoghurt to their cooking. During my trip, I couldn’t help but draw similarities between India and Bulgaria. Perhaps related to the longstanding relationship between the two countries, with traces of evidence going back as early as the 8th Century AD!
Not only did I come across Indian-style toilets and old ladies wobbling their heads in that soft gentle manner. Bulgaria has a number of dishes I found similar in seasoning to Indian flavours. I particularly enjoyed the popular local dish named Kavarma. A marinated and slow-cooked meat and vegetable stew that can be mild or spicy. Often served with white rice or hot pepper and a shopska salad.
There are also some wacky dishes like ‘Shkember chorba’ also known as ‘Tripe soup’. According to my Bulgarian friends, it is the best hangover cure (not for me!). A kind of soup made of cow stomach cooked with butter, garlic and boiled with milk. Other well-known dishes include Tarator, Shopska salad and Banista- a baked phyllo pastry commonly served with cheese and other sweet or savoury fillings.
Photo by uroszunic
Ensure to try Bulgaria’s national drink, the intensely strong rakia. I coughed tasting a drink that is somewhere between vodka and tequila. Bulgarians will commonly use the proverb: “A psychotherapist can help you but rakia is cheaper”.
7. Go to a festival and enjoy the hospitality of friendly locals.
The culture of any country’s tradition and heritage is best reflected through its locals and festivals. Bulgaria is a country of festivals, and its culture and traditions rejoice with colourful art and folklore festivals throughout the year.
The Rose Valley of Kazanlak in Bulgaria’s central region stretches for 87 miles and is a year-round destination. But, on the first Sunday of June each year, you can enjoy Bulgarian folklore dancing, traditional crafts and photography in the rose fields.
Photo by National Geographic
It seems there are always friendly locals to meet around and about, or at a traditional taverna. One day, I was simply walking through a small village in the middle of nowhere when a number of elder women came out of a church. A smile and a hug later, one woman handed me a brown bag. Inside was a packed lunch!
8. Explore Diverse Nature with Hiking and Outdoor Sports.
Rila lakes
Bulgaria is a hotspot for diversity in Europe and the nation’s hiking trails are plentiful. It’s no surprise, given that 1/3 of the country’s territory is covered by forests. Bulgaria has a majorly mountainous landscape with almost 1400 protected natural areas. There are plenty of adventures to be had in Bulgaria, from skiing to horseriding, of course, hiking and even scuba diving in the Black Sea.
Hiking, in my opinion, is the best way to explore a country and save money. Besides the major attractions in Bulgaria like the Rila monastery and Vitosha mountain, there is an abundance of short and sweet walking routes exist across the country. While volunteering in Veliko Tarnovo, I spent delightful mornings strolling through small green villages and reading under oak trees.
A jump on the metro from central Sofia will take you to Vitosha where you can take a bus to hike or ski (depending on the season) up, down and around the trails of Vitosha mountain.
Image by Britannica.com
Beyond, you can hike to the Rila Monastery, a grand and magical UNESCO World Heritage where nature meets religion. Entry is free, and if you get there early, you spend the rest of the day exploring the stunning and calm 7 Rila Lakes.
In many ways, Bulgaria is a crossroads country, a meeting place where East, West, North and South meet. As one of the oldest countries in Europe, Bulgaria is also one of the oldest inhabited countries in the world.
As always, I will recommend volunteering in the countries you visit to get the most out of your travels. My journey to Bulgaria was truly enhanced by the connections I made and the projects I took part in. That’s why I recommend Workaway and Worldpackers to experience travel without paying for accommodation. More than anything, the skills you learn and the connections you make are what make our slow travel experiences so memorable.
Travellers who stroll off the beaten path of Europe will discover just how much Bulgaria has to offer its visitors. Despite being the cheapest destination in Europe, it remains relatively unknown to most holidaymakers and tourists on the backpacking trail.
From Darkness to Discovery: A Journey of Growth Through Creative Healing and Trusting the Process…
“Though my soul may set in darkness, it will rise in perfect light: I have loved the stars too fondly, to be fearful of the night”.
Sarah Williams
It’s Been a While…
Coronavirus overwhelm. Lockdown. New passions.Old habits.Social distancing. Physically closer. No travel. Yes, travel. Green countries. Red countries. Vaccinations. Repatriation flights. Christmas cancelled. Party-gate. Let’s go for dinner? Oh, wait, rule of 6. Do I need a mask? Can I sit there? Socially distanced drinks in the park? Oh, I don’t know anymore… I’m just going to stay home and avoid the world and its problems. Now I’m lonely. But I like being at home. I love reading The Artist’s Way. This feels good, solitude. I can paint, I can write with a cup of tea and more time to myself. More time to think. Space to breathe and realign. Pause.Okay, let’s go see the world.
In other words… Sometimes difficult paths lead us to the most beautiful destinations.
Four months ago, I landed in Faro, without a job or a plan of where my life was going next.
I’d quit my tech job just four days earlier… Taking a leap of faith, I arranged to volunteer with a disabled author in the remote mountains of southern Portugal. A bit random I know, but all will be explained…
At the airport, I reminisced on the last time I stood waiting for my Osprey backpack at baggage reclaim in New Delhi airport two years prior. Fresh-faced and excited to travel the world, after five long years working in corporate London.
Then the pandemic obviously hit, just as I started travelling. Where had those two years gone? I was 26 yesterday! I’ve gone from travelling to India to lockdown in India to lockdown in London to now travelling again! The pandemic really brought a tasty concoction of pain and beauty to the party.
How do we find peace in such turbulent times?
By trusting the process and acknowledging how growth blossoms in our darkest times. I’m finally in a much happier place than I was last year. So in today’s post, I want to share my story about darkness, discovery and divine timing.
Darkness: Goan Beaches to Lockdown London
Like most of us, the last two years have changed everything for me.
As the world entered 2020, a rollercoaster of life-changing experiences chewed up and spat out any plans we had for our lives.
I myself ended up locked down in a hostel in India with sixty strangers. During this, I fell in love, rediscovered myself, and experienced a major personal transformation. While being locked down in India in 2020 with limited water, food, and no freedom to wander the streets was hard, lockdown in 2021 London was even tougher…
As they say, you get a culture shock going to India, but even worse for me was the lifestyle shock of returning to England.After living slowly in India between silent mountains and on idyllic beaches. Now I was back in a world of fast fashion, fast food and, sales, sales, sales…
After 9months abroad, I felt completely out of place in my home country…
Have You Ever Been Through a Dark Time?
Lockdown London- 2021
I forgot how the western world tells us we are inadequate.
Subtly reminding us every day; “you need this makeup, order this food, those shoes”. To look good enough, to be good enough, to fit in.
Lockdown in London feels like endless days flicking between work and travel plans from the 4-walls of my childhood bedroom. For one year, broken and trapped in a world I didn’t connect with any longer. I disconnected from close friends and shut myself away from the outside world. Work slumped, as my mind was drowning in a sea of confusion and questions about who I was or what I wanted to be. Day in and day out, I played the never-ending guessing game of when travel would return.
Was this really the be-all and end-all until travel returned?
Yet, returning to England in January 2021 held a bigger transformation than I’d expected…
Discovery, Creativity & Staying Present
“In times of pain, when the future is too terrifying to contemplate and the past too painful to remember, I have learned to pay attention to right now. The precise moment I was in was always the only safe place for me.”
In this darkness, the light at the end of the tunnel started appearing in the form of a book. Given to me by my good friend Helen who I met in India. It became massively popular during the pandemic, so you may have heard of it…
‘The Artist’s Way’
‘The Artist’s Way by Julia Cameron is a spiritual 12-week course in discovering and recovering your creative self. In the midst of exhaustion, this book gave me new energy to discover creative passions and recover old ones buried.
One day, I played meditative tunes on my laptop, picked up a pen and a book and started to write. Words of pain and anguish flowed out of me with ease and soothed my mind.
I found fun in making jewellery with friends. Or painting a piece of art using watercolours or acrylics.
Looking through old memorabilia at my mother’s house one day, I found childhood paintings tucked away in the family loft. Which included books I’d written as an ambitious 7-year-old, and notes scribbled with silly poems and funny limericks.
A creator had always existed in me and I’d silenced her for too long…
“Creativity – like human life itself – begins in darkness”
“Where had that fun and playful child gone?” I thought.
That creative and playful child had no one to impress. No one to say what was good and what was bad. What was right and what was wrong. My mother simply applauded everything flowery card I made or short story I wrote.
That creative child loved being creative, simply for the fun of it.
Darkness to discovery and the divine timing of life. The Artist’s Way came into my life just when I needed it most. Starting the recommended ‘Morning Pages’ where you write 3 pages a day of whatever is on your mind or however you feel. This began a journey of healing through journaling.
Consequently, I started discovering who I really was, rather than who I’d been told to be. In addition, I started a morning routine, so after taking a meditative walk, I’d come home and write whatever messiness was going on in my mind out, and onto a piece of paper.
Above all, it felt as though my pain was being given out to the universe to deal with. Like I no longer had to deal with this headache all on my own.
I loved the quotes, and how the book highlighted creativity and writing as a journey back to self. I’d become lost in all the noise of the Western world after a year of peace and silence in India.
Julia Cameron spoke beautifully of realigning with your values. And for the first time, I stopped worrying about the past and future. I started to discover how being present with the creative flow allowed me to quiet the demons in my mind.
Divine Timing- New Beginnings
The place where light and dark begin to touch is where miracles arise
Robert A Johnson
This period of self-recovery was crucial to the next stage of my journey to self.
As travel restrictions eased in the late summer of 2021, a girl in a random Whatsapp group had posted saying she was planning a trip to Crete.
Close to my birthday weekend hey?
I jumped at the chance to get abroad for the first time in 2021, and I had no idea how desperately I needed it! My shoulder’s loosened, and I took a deep breath being close to the ocean again. My heart warmed seeing life moving again, feeling a new culture and tasting new foods.
This trip spurred a new abundance of hope in me. As a result, I started to believe that the travel lifestyle was possible again.
Maybe as a Digital Nomad, perhaps as a volunteer, who knows?
What mattered was that this trip to Crete with 3 complete strangers gave me the confidence to realign with myself. The courage to go after what I wanted again and make some changes to my (unhappy) life.
And I made some biggies…
Finding Peace with Darkness, Attracted more Light:
Change is scary, but as I write this, I’m filled with joy from the last few months.
I’ve quit my job and started volunteering abroad. With more time and space for myself, I’ve found a new confidence. I’ve been to Portugal to volunteer with a disabled author. Held 2 gardening volunteer positions in Bulgaria to learn about nature. And, working with an autistic child in Croatia to work with special needs children. Each experience, allows me to learn new passions and recover the creative in me.
So despite the downsides, the past 2 years have been the most transformational years of my entire life.
In Summary:
If you take anything from this post, please remember that darkness is the birthplace of growth.
It is in the darkness that flowers grow, darkness is the soil. We are born in darkness, in our mother’s womb. It is in the darkness that stars are born.
As per this blog post, I’ve discovered that I want my writing to be more vulnerable. I think we all need to embrace the darkness and share our vulnerability a little more, so we can truly see the light.
I want to change the style of writing on this blog. To be more truthful and honest about my experiences. I’m not trying to fool anyone with the glitz and glamour of travel and my life.
The darkness can teach you so much if you choose to see it. Each experience leads us to the next, be patient with the process and trust all is working in your favour. This way, you can harness our power and embrace the divine timing of life.
What do you think you could discover if you embraced your darkness?
Getting ready to travel post-corona?Heard about Slow Travel? After several long term backpacking trips abroad, one thing I’m regularly asked about is the contents of my backpack.
For the last 10 years, I’ve travelled regularly for extended periods of time– and learnt a few tips along the way. So, besides the basics like clothes and a backpack (see my in-depth review of the Osprey Fairview70 here), there are some essential items I recommend that can help save you time, stress and space on your adventure! I’ve had to narrow down my own must-haves when travelling slow. In this post, I want to share with you five essential items for slow travellers I’ve discovered.
Of course, I still have moments where I pack too much or too little- we’re all learning right? But, with each trip, I get a little bit closer to finding the balance- if one exists.
Less is More When it Comes to Slow Travel- Minimise & Prioritise
I’m now practicing minimalism as a lifestyle. And in doing so I’ve found what utilises a lot of your backpack space is the STUFF. Be it the unnecessary electronics, or too many pairs of socks. The books (I’m slowly transitioning to reading off a kindle) or the cute souvenirs you just had to buy…
Eventually, just like in your parent’s house, the STUFF accumulates. But, now your house is on your back, so you’ve got to think logically. Of course, there is no one right way to pack. But, a lesson I’ve learnt is to be clear on the absolute essentials in your travel pack.
The 5 Absolutely Essential Items for Slow Travellers
Each of these items, I have used personally and they’ve become part of my travel lifestyle. This post contains affiliate links, but have used each item in this list personally and can highly recommend each one of these essential items for slow travellers. Plus every little helps 🙂
1. Global USB Travel Adapter
If you’re anyone planning to use a phone, laptop, camera, powerbank- this item is essential to space-saving in your backpack.
To keep all your electronics charged and healthy, you’ll need a solid adaptor. One that saves you weight and space with an all in one solution. I’ve personally used this adaptor by VGUARD for over 3 years and it’s never caused me any problems and still works perfectly. I love the 4 USB ports allowing me to charge multiple devices at one time, while also being able to plug my laptop in. The functions allow it to plug into US/UK/AU/EU pins and the device overall covers more than 150 countries. This a truly universal product which is why it’s made it onto the essential items for slow travellers list.
2. Compression Packing Cubes
Lets be real, if you’re anyone like me who easily lets their hoodies, tops, trousers or underwear get in a twist- literally. Packing cubes provide the peace of mind that compares to having a wardrobe system on your pack.
BeforeAfter
Fitting into my Osprey Fairview 70 are 2 sets of these packing cubes. They’re durable, compact and allow you to separate your underwear from your beach gear, your tops from your dresses, trousers, socks and shoes. It gets messy when you’re on the road. Compression packing cubes provide you with a system, reduce space and, the peace of mind of not jumbling your entire ‘wardrobe’ every time you need to fetch something from your backpack.
NOTHING is more important in life than a good sleep. Whether you plan on staying in hostels, hotels, guesthouses or with hosts- while it might not be the first thing you think of, on the road you’ll be staying in unfamiliar beds, new environments, potentially in shared rooms, in areas where loud traffic flows nearby. Making it easy for any noise to disturb your precious sleep *remembers drunken hostel-mates strolling in at 5am on a recent trip to Portugal*.
As such I HIGHLY recommend the Becheln noise-cancelling earplugs that mould perfectly to your ears and block out anyone disturbing you while you rest. They’re also reusable, and you can easily clean them in hot soapy water.
4. Portable Charger/Power Bank
Get used to it, on the road, no plan goes to plan! Situations can easily arise where you think you had enough charge on your phone, Kindle or camera. *Reminicises on that time I had nothing to snap pictures on a beautiful hike I took through the Himalayan mountains*.
To save the unnecessary frustration of being stuck with a dead and useless device in your bag, I can highly recommend the powerful Anker’s 20000mAh Power Bank which has saved me a few times before! This model, in particular, has lasted me two years and reliably charges my phone 3-5times. The only downside is it’s slightly heavier than other models, but their batteries do not last as long. (Again finding balance) I regularly wander off into the unknown without a plan or knowing when I’ll return. So, the Anker’s 20000mAh Power Bank suits my travels perfectly.
5. And Completing the List, A Kindle (E-Reader)
Finalising my list of essential items for slow travellers is the Amazon Kindle. Be it sunny days spent in a hammock at your hostel, or sitting on a beach. Travel is the perfect time to get into reading.
I love flicking the pages of a traditional book, but to save space I’ve slowly transitioned over to the Amazon Kindle. The device is lightweight and has space for 1000s of books easily downloadable from the Amazon store. Plus an adjustable front light, and a battery that lasts a month at a time- the Kindle is a no brainer for slow travellers.
Essential Items for Slow Travellers in Summary:
With each of these items, one thing I can promise you is some peace of mind. They’ve made life on the road easier for me, so I hope they can help you with the laborious task of packing. A final note, get clear on your priorities in packing. You’ll need to consider potentially different seasons, activities and all those random situations that come with life on the road. The items have made it onto my top ‘5 Essential Items for Slow Travellers’ as the most problem solving and valuable- saving me space, stress and money. Please share your thoughts on this list, I’d also love for you to share any items you recommend carrying when slow travelling!
The question I was met with when telling friends and family of my first trip abroad in 2021. And to be honest, I didn’t know myself.
I’d put Greece on the backfoot since a *typical* girls partying holiday in Kavos, Corfu for a post-A levels celebration in 2012. Memories of a mini-England in the sun, full of steamy young Brits, drunken tattoos and €2 English breakfasts meant I’d subconsciously dismissed Greece as a destination for years.
But, COVIDs change everything right? After a 9-month drought from international travel, a friend suggested visiting the historic northern region of Chania on Greece’s largest island of Crete. My reluctance eased when researching October temperatures of 25 degrees+ and the alluring charm of the South Mediterranean.
“When you release expectations, you are free to enjoy things for what they are instead of what you think they should be”- Mandy Hale
And simply put, I’ve fallen completely in love with Crete.
Free from the rush of London life, the slower pace of living of the Cretan people stuck out instantly when arriving in central Chania. A far cry from the white and blue buildings of Mykonos or Santorini, I rented a small penthouse with a skyline view leading down to the old Venetian harbour. A colourful setting surrounded by amber tones and plant-filled balconies of the local Cretans.
I stood on the balcony, kissed by a radiant warmth on my arms and a fresh ocean breeze- ready to soak up the bliss of this new destination. With no expectations, everything became a gift, here are 8 reasons I fell in love with Crete:
1. The Old Town of Chania
We’d spent the first day on our closest beach, followed by a soft evening stroll as the sunset over the mountainous terrain. The beach was lined with umbrellas and sweet tourist-priced cocktails at various restaurants with picture menus. While a coconutty pina colada tastes lush gazing at golden rays glisten atop the Mediterranean sea- we could have been anywhere.
But when we strolled to the other side of the harbour and stumbled across the vibrant ambience of old town Chania, we’d landed in the depths of Cretan culture. Amber lights glow on old stone buildings, ruins neighbour new apartments, the streets filled with locals, the odd tourist would stick out like a sore thumb.
2. Samaria Gorge
We thought about braving the Samaria Gorge alone as we did not want a guided tour. But upon doing some research, the logistics were not adding up. The start and endpoints of the Samaria Gorge tour are different, meaning you must either double back on yourself (for 16km no thank you) or, get a bus AND a ferry back to your vehicle and then drive through windy (and dark) mountains!
As such, I would advise taking a guided tour unless you have plenty of time on your trip, or you plan on staying the night at Agia Roumeli. Our tour of Samaria Gorge with Fantastic Crete was perfect. As a slow-paced and friendly tour guide strolled behind the group in case of any emergencies. We were free to venture at our own pace and they provided convenient pickup and drop-off locations for just €48.
Be aware, that a 16km gorge hike can be dangerous, visions of Mufasa yelling ~Simbaaaa@ in the gorge came to me when a small rock fell from above the moment we began. However, it was worth it! With views that are just unimaginably spectacular. The walk is a challenge, climbing over large rocks and big steps up and down, good shoes are a must! Even friends that wore good walking boots were aching for a number of days after.
White mountains and luscious greenery complete with a stunning black sand beach with all of your Greek favourite foods and drinks. The pictures really say it all!
The Black Beach at Agia Roumelli (end of the hike)
3. Food & Service- Plus a free shot & dish with every meal.
Beautiful dining experiences night after night is really what sold Crete to me. Almost every restaurant greeted us with friendly smiles, water, and luxury hospitality. Most of Greece’s food is based on the simply delicious flavours of lemon, garlic and olive oil. So from fresh-caught sea bass to tzatziki and fresh (+cheap) white wines, I fell in love with the simple delight of Cretan food. Keep reading to the end to reveal the 5 best places I ate in Chania, Crete.
Even better, most restaurants kindly give you a complimentary course at the end of your meal. My favourites included a bottle of rose-flavoured local Raki, and salted caramel tarts. One place even strangely served us cauliflower & broccoli with our cocktails! My top recommendations for restaurants you absolutely must try in Chania can be found at the end of this article!
4.Local buses
It’s always a pleasure to stumble across an efficient and economical local transport system. I love chilling on a bus and watching a landscape of mountains, sun and sea appear and vanish into the distance. With buses to and from the airport and central Chania for just €2.50 for a 30-minute ride- you cannot go wrong!
5. Balos beach & Gramvousa
I really never expect much from ‘a boat tour’ in any destination. We booked a bus and boat via GetYourGuide to visit the remote locations of Balos Lagoon and Gramvousa island. P.s do not fall for the price quoted on their website (this is only for the bus) and they will ask for a further €30 for the boat. So, for roughly €45 per person, we were delighted by the turquoise blue waters and blown away by the landscape that looked like something off of a postcard. Balos beach treats you to stunning clear waters, pink sand and even goats on the beach. While Gramvousa offers a decent beach and incredible views from the old Venetian fortress on the highest part of the island, at 137 meters.
6.Slow pace and presence of locals- in pictures
The slow pace of life in Crete is what I really loved when I visited Chania. Not only is every tucked-away restaurant or hidden corner beautiful. By adopting this mindset, my feet led me to wander random streets, appreciating the colours and individuality of local life.
From the luscious and vast plants hanging from the balconies of locals to the smells, sounds and activity of the streets. I felt like I was floating across this island. The only way to describe it really is: to feel like living in a state of bliss.
I’ll let the pictures do the talking!
7. Elafonisi
A more touristy spot but a lengthier drive if coming from Chania. Elafonisi is home to the pink (ish) sand beaches of Crete and beaches lined with Umbrellas and Europeans. Nonetheless, the beaches were stunning, sunny and washed by crystal clear waters. A stunning panoramic view of lagoons, mountains and the open ocean.
8. Cat sanctuaries
We get used to seeing stray cats and dogs across Europe and the rest of the world. But, what’s delightful to see is when locals and strays build a supporting and loving connection. These cats and kittens are unfortunately faced with a harsh reality of starvation and fleas. But dotted across Chania are cat sanctuaries where locals collect donations and handle the veterinary costs of sick and hungry cats and kittens. See side-stepping the normals fabulous blog post on how you can do more to help!
Crete as a destination is full of flavour, friendliness and colour. The slow pace of living and non-touristy vibes makes it one of my new faves in Europe. As promised, the following restaurants I visited delivered outstanding food and quality service, they and are not to be missed!
My Top 5 places to eat in Chania:
Senal- £££ yes more costly but it’s been a year since we’ve been able to travel. Highly recommend the beef tartar, veal pappardelle pasta, ceviche and ‘Trippin’ cocktail. Some unique dishes I wouldn’t usually get, with flavours that dont lie!
Salis- ££ just stunning quality and incredible dishes including their duck and beetroot risotto and carbonara. In a charming location on the harbour with beautiful interiors. Salis lived up to its reputation!
To Steki- (££) Firstly, To Stekis house white wine for less than €8 was the best I tried in Chania. Combined with large starters, friendly service and ambience in the tucked away streets of the old town.
Thalassimo Agiari- (£££)- A fresh glass of wine, succulent shrimps, or a fresh caught piece of fish or squid as the sunsets over the harbour. Prices are higher and the staff are a little less friendly, but none the less an impressive meal with stunning surroundings.
Mikro Kelari (£) – When a group of 4 eat a delicious meal and 3 bottles of house wine, for a total of €66 there is absolutely nothing to complain about. The greek salad was refreshing, pork chops delicious and smokey sausage top quality for extremely low prices!
There is so much to see in Venice. The Italian city is famous for its lagoon-blue canals and charming bridges. With no valentines travel this year, I feel pretty in love looking back on these photos.
Accompanying and reflecting its beauty are the colourful neighbouring islands of Murano and Burano for a day trip. Combined, you’ll enjoy slow vibes, charming restaurants and sunset spots- easily making Venice one of Europe’s most scenic sinking cities.
Fortunately, I took my first trip to Italy in early 2020. The picturesque scenes from this city of canals completely blew me away. Italy is home to the slow living movement, so it’s pretty crazy to me that I didn’t visit sooner! The movement also inspired the slow food, slow fashion and slow travel trends I’ve been lucky enough to enjoy.
The beauty on offer in Venice is absolutely immaculate, and here I’ve combined some of my favourite shots. Credit to my best friend Joanna for some of these photos too (see her page!).
Subscribe below for more slow travel posts, local food itineraries and mindfulness blogs:
Man… It just brings it all back! Anyway, I hope you enjoyed my collection of Venice and Burano. If I’ve inspired your wanderlust then I would love it if you could subscribe below for more slow travel posts, local food itineraries and mindfulness blogs!
Want to know one of the best things about South Goa? Delicious, diverse and budget food options down every street and tucked away corner. But, due to shear the number of options available, it can be all too easy to get caught up in the tourist spots where you’ll get less for your money. I’ve put together this guide for the true foodies out there looking to make the most of their trip. In this guide, you’ll find the best restaurants in South Goa suited to every budget.
After 3-months of living in the luscious green and blue surroundings of Goa last year, I had a moment or two to sample Goa’s vibrant food scene. Rooted by Hindu origins, Portuguese colonisation and Muslim rule, Goa’s diverse history is reflected in its fresh seafood, Indian flavours and spicy cuisine. You can really have it all in Goa!
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A Foodie’s Guide to South Goa: The Best Restaurants for Every Budget
So, in the spirit of research (of course) and with more time on my hands due to the coronavirus, I set out to discover amazing dishes for all budgets and combine the best here. My personal foodie’s guide here shares my top restaurants for every budget in South Goa, and specific dishes you must try!
£££- Top-end restaurants (that won’t break the bank)
Let’s start at the top. A heads up, my best restaurant recommendations with the three ‘£££’ signs in South Goa really means anything between 800-1200 rupees (£8-£12) per head! With this budget, you can easily fill your stomach with a generous 2-course meal and a drink.
1. Avocado Garden, Palolem/Patnem
With a peaceful vibe away from the main road, you’ll find lovely seafood and fresh dishes at Avocado Garden. Attached to a hotel, service is fast and the food is nothing short of quality! Fresh and seasoned fish is a must-try, but you will also find a range of delicious healthy salads and thalis for a little more than average prices.
*Top recommendation- a fresh tuna steak with chips and greens*
2. Ciaran’s, Palolem beachfront
Ciaran’s restaurant brings sunset views on the beach, authentic Goan flavours and generous banana milkshakes! Primarily a guesthouse, its jungle huts and leafy settings surround a stunning sea-facing restaurant. They offer live music nights and an exquisite menu dedicated to authentic Goan flavours.
For a light lunch, I enjoyed my favourite, a delightful fresh tuna and mayonnaise sandwich (which tastes- um, so good!) But their speciality being a light and aromatic Goan prawn curry will cost you just 320 rupees. The service can be a little slow here at times, however, the sea views and lovely banana milkshakes make up for it while you wait!
3. Magic Italy, Palolem
For the best Italian in India!
Need I say more, Magic Italy is well known for its authentic Italian flavours and thin-crust pizzas. With meats and cheeses imported from Italy, this authentic family-run restaurant quickly became my go-to treat.
Alongside the delicious beef ragu and creative daily specials, my solid favourite here was the Salame Milano with added green chilli (of course). I’m a pizza foodie any day, but this place easily won the top spot for the best pizza I had in India. To be honest, it probably stands in my top-five pizzas ever.
4. Cow Corner, Patnem
One word… Quality.
Cow Corner is a long-running firm favourite amongst travellers and locals alike. With weekly live music at their luscious green indoor and outdoor dining spaces, you will enjoy a fusion of lively and peaceful vibes.
Here you will find nothing but a quality mixture of cuisines from across the world. Prices are higher, but my delicious calamari spaghetti was well worth it. My top tip is to check out their Facebook to keep up with live events to enjoy. And delve into a truly great evening.
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££- Mid-range spots for everyone
My best restaurants in the mid-range category in South Goa will cost you anything between 4-800 rupees per person (£4-8) for 2 dishes and a beer. Go with the flow and enjoy each one of these exciting dining options on your next trip to Goa.
Mollu’s, Palolem
A local delight, just a stone’s throw from the beachfront! A 20-minute stroll or 3-minute scooter ride from Palolem’s centre will take you to one of Goa’s most authentic restaurants. Full of local South Indians, Mollu’s serves a banquet of sensational Goan flavours at sweet prices.
My TOP recommendation (although everything is delicious) would be their spicy full tandoori chicken, daal fry and paneer butter masala dish to share between two. I regularly ate here during my 3 months stay in Goa, and pretty much got this selection every time! Accompanied by white rice and chapatis it hits the spot perfectly!
2. Cherry Olive, Palolem
A firm favourite, I enjoyed a mixture of genuinely good Indian and Western food at Cherry Olive. Funnily enough, after 7 months of strong and flavour-filled Indian dishes, I was missing that little bit of home. To which Cherry Olive filled that void with their lovely steak and onion pie (which I couldn’t believe was actually so good).
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I also became a big fan of their fish thalis serving a different variety of flavour every day. I can also highly recommend their generous puri bhaji in the mornings and cheaper (than Magic Italy) but still quality pizzas!
3. Palolem Beach Resort’s Restaurant, Palolem
Biriyani, beach and a beer, what more could you ask for?
Located at the forefront of the main Palolem strip, you’ll find this popular spot on the immediate right facing the beach. Honestly, this was my go-to for a fragrant, spicy and generous chicken biriyani. With lively vibes and a beer for <500 rupees, you’ll enjoy an authentic and budget-friendly meal with a view!
Tip: I would not recommend their fish dishes. We found ours to be small and overpriced. Much better at my next recommendation!
4. Baba’s Little Italy, Palolem
Located on the main Palolem strip, Baba’s Little Italian offers great vibes in their energy and customer service. I loved this vibrant spot. Each time we visited they aimed to please, even going to the lengths of contacting their local fisherman when we were craving tuna!
We enjoyed this generous whole tandoori lemon and garlic seabass, chips and salad over a candlelit dinner. And, paid less than 1000rupees for the 2 of us! However, I was less impressed by their pizzas due to the deep pan style, but they also offer great Indian dishes for average prices.
For the budget-keepers! My recommendations in this category will easily fill you up on 200rs per person for a selection of dishes and a drink! Keeping in my daily budget of 500rs, I attended most of these spots daily. And enjoyed ridiculously good food at a ridiculously low price! See below for my best:
1. Sari Krupa, Palolem
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A breakfast must-have on your list! Sai Krupa became my favourite for a quick and tasty breakfast dosa. Run by a local family on Palolem’s main road, mama serves up authentic and homestyle Goan cooking with a smile. My top recommendation is 100 percent a spicy masala dosa (80rs) with a chai or banana milkshake. But their thalis are also quality and reasonably priced.
2. Hotel Purvi, Chaudi
After a day trip out on scooters, we stumbled across Hotel Purvi on our way back through Chaudi. Not expecting much, we just wanted to fill our stomachs. But wow, were we impressed- this had to be added to the best restaurants in South Goa list!
Due to its location away from the beach, Hotel Purvi offers authentic Goan dishes at rock bottom prices. Best to catch a tuk-tuk or hitchhike a scooter into Chaudi, and enjoy the home-style cooking by the lovely local family here. A personal favourite for me: Kadai Paneer with white rice and chapati! Per person, you’ll pay roughly 200rs (£2) for a full stomach!
3. Vithal’s Tasty Food Corner, Agonda
One of my favourite budget food stops when I ventured away from Palolem. Vithal’s Food Corner a short stroll from the beach., offering generous and delicious food with quirky decor.
The vegetable thalis offer spicy flavours including the most delicious pumpkin thali. Run by a Nepalese man, here you can also enjoy quality momos and thupka, this place became a go-to whenever I was in Agonda.
You may struggle to find Vithals tasty food corner as it is not clearly on Google Maps. So, if you’re in Agonda lookout for it close to Cupid heaven guesthouse and opposite Romya bakery on Agonda high street.
4. Ceasars, Patnem
Ceasars in Patnem is a cosy spot for a fusion of yummy Italian and Goan food. With floor-seated dining and friendly customer service, their bohemian vibes are perfect for a quiet meal.
It’s hard to find good north Indian food in South India, so I was happy to stop by this place one morning and find this filling aloo paratha (which resembled a pizza). Also satisfying is the creamy spinach and ricotta ravioli with a fresh and tasty rose sauce. But, maybe a little too much sauce!
As I struggled to find a good dessert in Goa- I had to share the banoffee pie at Tide Exotic. Stumbling across this cute and chilled spot on the seafront was a blessing as their banoffee pie for 220rs did not let me down!
Planning a trip to Goa? I would love if you utilised this guide to try some of the best dishes I found in Goa and share any specials you discover!
To summarise…
My best restaurants in South Goa are diverse and exciting, I really recommend you try all! You will find that a lot the food can be very same samey at slightly different prices. Hence why I really wanted to share some of the best food I discovered in South Goa and add specific dishes in this genuine foodies guide. Personally, I found the most authentic restaurants were the cheaper spots away from the beach. But, for me as a long term traveller in South Goa, I was so happy to have the option of all different cuisines on my doorstep!
2020. A year like no other. A pandemic hit the world, and at the same time I set off to travel around the world.
Staying in India during the pandemic, there’s no doubt… 2020 was one of the most unexpectedly amazing years of my life.
Despite not being able to explore the 25+ countries I’d planned to see over the next few years and COVID19 effectively cancelling my travel dreams for now. I was lucky enough to get to India *two days before* international borders were to be shut indefinitely and live there for 9 months.
And funnily enough, I’ve always said: “I need a year in India” after visiting in 2015. But I’d never of expected that to come true in the middle of a global pandemic.
Living in India throughout the pandemic or the ‘Coronavirus diaries’ has been fascinating, and re-established for me that slow and off-the-beaten-path travel is what I want to focus on in 2021. While living in Goa, Dharamshala and Rishikesh were absolutely fabulous this year, it really was those day trips where I ventured into the unknown that will stay in my mind forever. The world is full of so many incredible places that are less talked about, and I want to see and share more of that.
Travel Photos 2020
I am hopeful that travel will pick up in 2021. Particularly slow and more sustainable travel as the virus will not disappear overnight. For now, let’s focus on 2020, and my favourite travel snaps from the year.
January: Amsterdam
I kickstarted this year with a farewell trip to Amsterdam with my bestie and soul sister- Joanna. Despite its commerciality, Amsterdam is one of my favourite cities in the world that offers beautiful architecture and its own unique charm. Accompanied by 165 canals, relaxed locals, exquisite food and 75 museums and 30 parks. Every corner offers a different vibe.
It’s a pretty expensive city, like most in Europe. But each trip gives me stories to tell and memories of too much laughter! My 4-day trip became a foodies exploration as we set out to discover the best restaurants. And, it really is as good as they say- Amsterdam is my perfect kind of city break!
This weekend in Amsterdam was our special send-off holiday before I prepared for my long-term trip coming up!
March: Rajasthan- My First Stop in India
I was off, landing in India, I spent a couple of days celebrating Holi in Delhi with locals. My first priority was then to see Rajasthan before heading up to the green states of Uttarakhand and Dharamshala. Here, I was blessed to visit a number of cultural and religious landmarks before COVID took over.
Most favourably, the stunning Patrika Gate in Jaipur, the Blue city of Jodhpur and the less touristy Rajasthani town of Bikaner- famous for its iconic rat temple and giant Shiva statue.
Shiva at sunsetPatrika Gate-Jaipur!
Rajasthan’s intriguing history is a delight for the senses and a vibrant cultural haven. Exhibited in the diversity in its food, architecture and famous landmarks. It’s loud and hectic, with a uniqueness to each city that leaves you feeling like you’ve barely scratched the surface.
March-August: Rishikesh and the Lockdown
Now my second home! Rishikesh, a green and spiritual city in Northern India had not been on my original plans. However, when the pandemic hit and India went into panic mode– Rishikesh became my saving grace.
Sitting in the foothills of the Himalayan mountains, Rishikesh is a meat and alcohol-free city providing natural beauty, great food and spiritual/yoga teachings.
And I loved it so much, I decided to stay for a further 3 months when state restrictions eased, living amongst a large and vibrant community of free spirits.
The lockdown was a tough shock that blew my travel plans out of the water. And without this group, I doubt I would have made it through. We managed to create some amazing lifelong memories, friendships and even a lockdown song which you can see here!
A little north of Rishikesh, small groups started to venture out on scooters around the Uttarakhand state once the national lockdown lifted.
Devprayag
Devprayag in Northern Uttarakhand meaning ‘Godly Confluence’ offered serene nature in the form of waterfalls, jungles and mountains.
Most poignantly though, is where two raging rivers meet to form the holy Ganga river.
We stayed in an Ashram surrounded by silent and serene settings and participated in a number of hindu celebrations and meditative practices.
Kanatal and Chamba
Venturing off the beaten track in Uttarakhand to some of the lesser-known destinations was one of the best things I did in India.
Kanatal, around 90 minutes from Rishikesh or 5hours from Delhi is a relatively small town with an off-beaten-path vibe. With pristine views of the snow-capped Himalayan mountains, this small town provides endless routes to be discovered. By foot or by scooter, at 2600m, every corner or path will lead you to a new and stunning view.
While we were there, no standard activities were open due to COVID19. But we got stuck into the stunning nature and discovered a number of tranquil sunset points above the clouds.
With travel strictly limited, a major highlight was discovering these glorious cities tucked away in the Himalayas.
We decided to trek one day to the nearby colourful city of Chamba (not be confused with Chamba in Himanchal Pradesh). Only a 30 minute drive away, we decided to trek 3 hours/15km to venture through forest and silent roads in nature. Not too much farther, you will also find the glorious Tehri Dam that we had to skip. At this point or legs were done for!
Colourful Chamba
I absolutely loved Uttarakhand! Its everything I love about travel, silence in stunning nature, friendly locals and away from overcrowded hotspots.
Dharamshala
Soon, after 5 months in Rishikesh and Uttarakhand, I made my first state border crossing and headed further North to Dharamshala. As the centre of Tibetan culture in India, Dharamshala had been part of my original plan. And with the restriction legally lifted, I took a PCR test, filled an e-pass and rode 16-hours north.
We were blessed by a stunning, blue-sky day on our first day (in the 2nd wettest) part of India. Following a 5-day quarantine, I began to explore the green and silent mountainous surroundings of Mcleod Gang, Dharamkhot and Bhagsu. The pictures do the talking, and it was just soul revitalising to just be somewhere new again.
In September, the weather improved and I completed the absolutely stunning trek to Triund and the Snowline in Dharamshala. We ended up having this popular tourist spot all to ourselves!
Finally: Goa
Finally, I headed to Goa in September which would be the last stop on my 9 month trip in India. The coronavirus continues to kill India’s tourism industry. And, when we arrived, only two restaurants were open, and the streets were almost completely deserted.
Strangely, one of the major highlights of being in India during the pandemic has been the emptiness of normally overcrowded hotspots.
Not a footprint!
Having visited before, Goa was not part of my plan, but after 6 months in the mountains, the beach was calling my name. As per the picture, probably the most covid safe place in the world!
While North Goa provides party culture and a bustling beach/city vibe, South Goa for me offers a slower and more authentic experience.
On more popular beaches, like Palolem, Agonda, and Patnem, a supply of quality and cheap restaurants fill the palm tree-lined golden beaches. While quieter spots, such as Kola, Talpona and Kalkolem give a tropical island feel. Thick greenery surrounds tucked away beaches, with the odd restaurant or beach shack dotted around.
Ive been spoilt by sunsets and for the first time lived by the beach! A dream come true! This would be my last destination for now, but in the meantime, I am so blessed for the journey I had in 2020. Life somehow gave me the freedom to connect with nature, wander the mountains and tropical beaches of India during the pandemic.
December: Returning Home
So, 2020 was not exactly the year of constant travel that I’d dreamed of. And, returning home in December was truly one of the toughest decisions I’ve ever made. How crazy it is to remember this time last year right? Remember when COVID19 was barely a seedling and we were all geared up for a new decade?
But the year that caused so much pain also had a number of valuable lessons to carry forward into 2021. Most crucially, we were given some of our time back, and the mind space to evaluate how we spend our time.
Walks in my local part and mums Christmas dinner!
I am manifesting that travel will return to some sort of normal by mid-2021. When I hope to continue my RTW trip. For now, I will appreciate the present, be grateful for the journey, and top up those savings for more travel in 2021!
Final sunset in Goa- December 2020
But ‘Who Knows!’ by Chronixx and Protege is the song that sums up this year for me! “I just go where the trade wind blows…”
While I was aware of the ‘walled’ city on the Caribbean coast of Colombia, I was surprised by how proudly black culture was celebrated on my trip to Cartagena. Owing to its status as a central port for African slave trading in the Americas, inspiring displays of black artwork are exhibited across this vibrant city. But why not step just off-the-beaten-path on your trip to the thriving village of San Basilio de Palenque? This step back in time to the first free slave town in the Americas shows just how deep black culture runs in this popular Colombian gem…
In particular, the vividly distinct Afro-Colombian women dotted around, wearing bright dresses and exquisite handmade jewellery, selling unique fruits on street corners. And while many tourists will catch an Instagram-worthy photo with these lovely ladies (like mine below), few will seek the history behind their undeniable presence in this region…
For an invigorating day trip: follow the guidance below to the first free slave town of the Americas. An experience that greatly inspired me, filled with passionate resistance and cultural heritage, without taking you too far off the beaten path…
San Basilio de Palenque: A Brief History
These ladies, with their welcoming nature, unique language, and cultural spirit are from ‘Palenques’, which translates directly to “walled city”.
The Palenqueras are the direct descendants of African slaves who escaped from Spanish rule. Their ancestors consequently discovered and occupied a number of small villages in and around Cartagena called ‘Palenques’. Being the only Palenque still in existence, San Basilio de Palenque is accredited as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Owing to its preservation of original culture, traditions, and language that is still in existence today. Founded byBenkos Biohó and other slave escapees of the 16th century, the site gained independence in 1961, when a royal decree was signed and stated that the settlement would be free from Spanish rule. Moreover, in 2005, UNESCO proclaimed that the site represents an “Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity”.
Hidden remotely in the Montes de María mountains, the site is located approximately 31 miles (90mins) south of Cartagena. In my final week in Colombia, I stumbled across this documentary and decided to visit this cultural treasure.
Located in Palenque’s village center, a sculpture of Benkos Biohó. This figure is a striking effigy to Biohós struggle for freedom and the equality of his people.
The local route vs a guided tour to Palenque
It would have been easier to let ourselves be swayed into purchasing a $90-day tour. Most come with a set itinerary, air-conditioned transfer, and lunch included. Although more convenient (and definitely more comfortable), a scheduled 5-hour tour for me would have meant a less meaningful experience. I did not want to limit my freedom to really understanding the authentic culture of the Palenque natives.
The local route to San Basilio de Palenque
**Tip** Its best to set off early for this trip. Be aware the last bus can return to Cartagena as early as 3 pm…
Firstly, you want to take a taxi to the bustling bus terminal in Cartagena.
In the busyness of the Cartagena bus terminal, ask locals for which terminal will take you to one of Palenque’s closest towns- San Juan or Mahates.
In the bus terminal, you can barter with different operators for the best price ticket. For instance, my bus went to Mahates and paid 6000 pesos, (so about £1.50!) They journey was hot, crowded, and a real representative of local life!
The bus will drop you in what looks like the middle of nowhere. Thankfully, you’ll be sure to find locals waiting around who are willing to drop you to central Palenque. After alighting at Mahates or San Juan, simply mention ‘Palenque’ to them and agree on your price.
We paid 3000 pesos- be aware of the hot motor under your right foot!
I take full credit for this snap of Steph whilst on a motorbike! Almost lost my phone and balance, but anything for the gram- right?
**Tip** Carry water. The bus was a hot and hectic ride that stopped every 5-10mins to let the fruit and drink sellers on and off. Echos of “cien pesos”, “agua, coffee, narage!” whilst four of us sat sweatily and piled into a two-person seat.
To Embrace Palenque Culture on your Day Trip…
1. Take a tour with a local guide
After talking to a few locals, we met Alberto- a Palenque native who spoke very little English. To gain an authentic insight into the culture, Alberto introduced us to Isaac, a member of the PeaceCorp who was living and working in Palenque- and spoke the language!
For a price of 30,000 pesos each (or £7ish), we received a tour from the inside out rather than the outside in!
Steph, Isaac, Alberto and yours truly!
The Palenquera language is a Spanish-Creole fusion constructed by the original slave escapees so that they could converse together unimpeded. Their slave masters were unable to understand the language, allowing escapees to speak freely.
2. Engage with the locals and learn their incredible history:
Palenque’s community spirit seemingly enabled them to resist and preserve their language, culture, and way of life from Western influence. I admired the passionate expressions of black pride dotted around this flourishing Afro-Colombian village.
Big hair and big smiles, hanging around with the with local children
We met a local family and learnt that the intricate braided hairstyles of Palenque women and girls were remnant of how braiding hair was used by the enslaved Palenque escapees to draw map-like escape routes. A fascinating attribute! And an inspiration to black females everywhere- your hair is not only beautiful, versatile, and unique. But, it was literally used to save the lives of slaves, leading them to freedom one braid at a time!
We were then greeted with shots of Palenque rum brewed directly by this local family.
3. Music is the beating heart of Palenque.
Despite its secluded nature, Palenque is home to a world-famous boxerand musical legends.
Firstly, meet Rafael Cassiani-the Champeta music genre champion from Palenque who still resides in the village. His friendly smiles and joyous attitude is heartwarming. Rafael then played one of the village’s traditional instruments to us, as Isaac translated his memorable stories. Rafael’s warm and inviting vibe was a genuine reminder of community spirit in this region.
For a small fee you can get a picture with him and his instruments.
Next, test the traditional creative instruments from Palenque and visit the Kombilesa Mi Studio. I tried the xylophone-like ‘marimbula’ is utilised by the village famous Kombilesa Mi band. A young creative group appealing to the hip hop audience while combining a mix of Spanish and the native Palenquero language into their music to preserve Palenque’s rich culture.
4. Try the Culinary Delights:
As the standard of most day tours we made sure to negotiate this with the local guide.
All this, as well as another shot of the local rum!
The lunch was a colourful combination of delicious fried red snapper served on a banana leaf and accompanied by side of coconut rice and a mango salsa. As per the The Culture Trips article: other dishes include “potato and meat stews and cabeza de gato, a sweet-spicy mash made from green plantains, onions, garlic, red bell pepper, tomato, and achiote”.
5. Finally, Enjoy the Rustic Architecture and Snap the Cultural Artwork:
One of the many insta-worthy portrayals of cultural love and appreciation, and a thought-provoking ideology
Kid Pambelé- Colombias first boxing world title holder from Palenque who’s career started as a shoe polisher!
A Cultural Treasure- Not to be Missed!
There is a profound historical significance behind the isolation of Colombia’s San Basilio de Palenque that is reflected throughout this novel village. A powerful reminder of the African struggle across the Americas and more beautiful than I ever would have imagined. To me, the presence of San Basilio de Palenque’s in 2019 has successfully retained and celebrated the souls of its original settlers.
Completing the Triund and Snowline trek has been a major highlight of my time in India so far- No question.
Following the 5-month lockdown in Rishikesh, North India, I jumped at the opportunity to head to the stunning Himalayan ranges of Himachal Pradesh when lockdown restrictions started easing! And, with the virus closing most attractions in India, trekking is one of the few things we could still do!
Disclaimer: I have always been fascinated by trekking and dreamed of taking those perfect silhouette pictures from mountain tops. Yet, the thought of actually completing these agonising uphill hikes seemed a world away from London, with bad hips and most of my time spent working from home (bed!)
The Triund and Snowline trek served as my biggest trekking challenge so far! The reward at the end is TOO spectacular to miss, read on to find out more…
Commonly known as the crown jewel of Dharamshala, Triund is a divine trekking destination offering panoramic views of the Dhauladhar mountain ranges and the Kangra Valley in the Himalayas. Sitting at 2827 meters, or (9275 feet), Triund is a firm favourite providing a moderately challenging trek and an abundance of natural beauty.
The trek is considered a moderate to easy trek by numerous online blogs (which doesn’t mean its easy). But, when I remembered my dead legs on a 2400m trek in Salento, Colombia – ‘easy’ sounded good!
In reality, unless you are a seasoned trekker– it’s not ‘that’ easy. I read some crazy reviews saying the trek took 2-3hours, if you have the stamina of a horse, yes. But otherwise, be prepared for it to take a lot longer! We reached Triund after 3.5/4 hours from Bhagsu Nag (about 7km from Mcleod Ganj) via the route recommended below.
Routes for the Triund Trek
So there are a few ways you can do this, this blog will focus on the 2nd option. This is the route we took, and I think is the best challenge mixed with ease and serene beauty.
Easiest– Catch a taxi or tuk-tuk to Galu Devi Temple (from Mcleod Ganj or Bhagsu) and from there hike the 8-9 km to Triund Hill.
Moderate- (recommended) Make your own way up to Dharamkhot from Mcleod Gang or Bhagsu. From there head to Gallu Devi Temple and follow the (8-9km) path to Triund.
Hardest – From Mcleod Main Square head to Bhagsu Nag> Bhagsu Waterfall> Triund Top. (As a beginner, I do not recommend taking this route given the steep ascends and unclear markings).
Top Hints and Tips for your trip:
Be sure to bring at least 2 litres of water as there are limited shops along the way. You cannot be sure what will be open/closed on your chosen day.
Carry some energy-rich snacks like nuts and fruit to keep you going.
There are no ATMs along the route so be sure to carry cash (to be safe, 1000rs per person per night).
I highly recommend a one-night stay at Triund. The trek is a tiring uphill walk and at night you can see the clearest stars. Furthermore, the quaint and peaceful morning had me feeling on top of the world!
There were no toilet facilities or power sources, so carry toilet paper and a power bank for your tech!
Additionally, a night to relax will give you power to head up (approx 90mins further) to the Snowline. To experience true mountain serenity the Snowline is a must-see and even better if you can continue onto Indarhah Pass!
Day 1: Trek to Triund
Starting at Bhagsu (which can be reached easily from Mcleod Ganj), we decided to set off around 8am. You want to find your way up to Gallu Devi Temple which can be reached by walking via Dharamkhot (Google maps works to some extent but your best bet is to ask a local if you get stuck). A good place to take a break, and I was panting already at this point. So, we stopped at the Sun and Moon Cafe, another option was the Cafe Gallu both offering chai and light breakfast (typically omelette or Maggi).
Gallu Devi to Triund
And the real trek begins! The quiet paths from Gallu Devi to Triund will take you through dense forests on both sides and rocky steps along a moderately steep road. There are yellow arrows marked along the way, but keep looking out for the markings on stones to keep you on track.
As above, crosses mark where not to go!
We ended up taking 4- hours from Gallu up to Triund. Our pace probably varied, as the further up you go, the steeper and sharper the rocks get. Within 2km of reaching Triund, the soles of our feet were hurting and our stomachs rumbled. There is usually a highly recommended café named Magic View, but this was closed due to the #coronatimes.
Given it was a pretty cloudy day in the middle of September, the views were sporadic and fast-changing. One minute we were submerged in a thick sea of white cloud and the next a radiant view of over the Dhadular ranges emerged from the fog. However, travelling off-season and in the Corona times gave the trek an authentic and relaxed feel. Every so often a local Indian herding horses or cows hurried passed, very few tourists were around and we bumped into a massive herd of goats. I can imagine they’d usually be accompanied by a few more selfie cameras!
Finishing Day 1
Despite some clouds covering a lot of the view on day 1. We reached Triund just in time for sunset and caught some stunning shots. By the evening, the temperature dropped rapidly! We wrapped up in thick blankets and laid back under the stunning sparkly sky. Honestly, I have never seen so many stars in my life! We were completely alone given the corona times, and even saw 5 shooting stars pass! Luckily, we managed to have a dinner of rice and dal at our guesthouse, Moonlight Rooms despite the quiet tourist site.
Photo by eventshigh.com
Given the situation, we negotiated a cheap price of 700INR for a small room without a toilet or electricity. Usually, you can expect to pay 1000-1200INR for a tent, or 1500INR for a guesthouse. It was cold, but the silence and exhaustion from a days walking ensured we had a deep sleep!
Day 2: See the Snowline and Return via Bhagsunag Waterfall
We woke up at 6am, feeling refreshed and watched the incredible sunrise over the peaceful Dhauladhar ranges. Leaving behind the calm and beautiful settings of Triund, we began our voyage up to the Snowline. To reinforce, the pristine walk and the breathtaking views make the Snowline an absolute must see!
The beauty is beyond words and caught me by surprise. By setting off early you can completely engross yourself in the spectacular views without worrying about time. There was also a small spot called the Snowline ‘Cafe’ which isn’t exactly a cafe but more a hut-like chaiwallah who serves omelette, Maggi and occasionally dal and rice.
After a simple omelette and chai, I perched on the edge of a rock, feeling proud, amazed and mesmerised. This became our spot for hours, and as there were fewer clouds it felt like no matter what, you hadn’t seen enough!
Furthermore, with the energy and the time, you can see this guide up to the stunning Indarah Pass!
Finishing Day 2
I didn’t want to go… But there was a long walk back ahead of us and no manmade lighting would not make this a fun in the dark. So, at around 1pm, we headed back via the route in the direction of Triund.
Upon reaching Triund, and stopping for a quick chai, we checked the routes back to Triund on the tiniest bit of signal! I’d heard the trek up to Triund via Bhagsu waterfall was steep. But when a trekking application said walking back via Bhagsunag waterfall only took 2hrs45- we jumped at the opportunity.
Well, seeing the other side, I was pleased we didn’t take this route up! The rocks were steep and sharp and at an incline that was considerably hard on the knees. There were also yellow arrows pointing us in the direction back to Bhagsu that ended up being helpful. And we used the Komoot app to keep us on trace. A small warning: overall this route is fun and adventurous, but arduous and confusing! Definitely a route for the thrill-seekers on the way up. But taking it on the way down gives you more stunning views and allows you to experience both routes of the Triund trek!
Downhill can easily feel harder than going uphill with this kind of terrain, and we completely exhausted upon reaching Bhagsu!
We had the best journey on our triund trek!
Reflecting on my trip, I discovered that solo trekking is a transformational experience. From the joy of pushing my abilities to the reward of stunning views at the end of the journey. The Triund trek was my first major hike and one that will inspire me to push myself to complete more challenging treks in the near future.
A few months ago, I quit my job and bought a one-way ticket to travel around the world.
Go ahead and laugh at my timing. I know.
On March 11th 2020, just 2 days into my long-awaited trip, I arrived in Delhi when the World Health Organisation declared that Coronavirus was now a global pandemic.
When a former colleague said “Why are you waiting until April? Go now!- Life will be cheaper in India!” at my work leaving drinks in February 2020, I took that as a sign from the universe to get going! Small whispers of this little virus in Wuhan are circulating, but no one seems to be that concerned since it’s restricted to a small part of China.
AND THEN, THE PANDEMIC BEGINS…
It’s the 9th of March 2020, and I’ve landed in India with temperature guns aimed at my head. Filling in a short medical declaration form at Delhi Airport, the heat and dust of India’s capital city hits my face. I’ve got the world at my feet and unbeknownst to me, it’s only 2 days before President Modi would lock India’s International Borders for the now delicate future.
At this point, I’m still playing with whether I should have listened to that colleagues advice.
We all know the best-laid plans almost never come to fruition. But before the pandemic, I’d envisioned spending 2-months in North India and and then be heading to:
South and SE Asia for 9 months
Australasia for 4 months spending Christmas and New years in Australia with family.
By mid-2021, I would be taking the 12-hour flight from Perth to South Africa
From there, continue on land through Africa for 8 months
Finally, with a short stop back in the UK, to explore South/Central America completing my trip in the glorious Caribbean.
Well… 7-months later, I’m still in India and currently living on the beach in Goa!
TRAVEL DREAMS = CANCELLED
My trip has started, and over the last 2 days, I’ve celebrated Holi in Delhi with locals. Visited some traveller hotspots in Jaipur, sipped chai with babas in Jodhpur, and got henna tattoos in Bikaner. Life is turning out just as I’d dreamed, albeit with a few strange interactions surrounding Coronavirus…
Next stop: Monkey Temple in Jaipur!
But then, the world (of course) started paying attention when case numbers shot up drastically across Europe and the US by mid-March.
Suddenly, haunting statistics hounded my news feeds, and a community of global travellers began to fall apart. In Rajasthan, I met backpackers with ambitious long-term travel plans who were swiftly grabbing the first repatriation flights home.
Confusion in the global travelling community over the right or wrong action to take sparked heated debates on Facebook. And I received a backlash of negativity when I posted travel photos of a day trip in Jaipur in mid-March. Now, the mask and sanitizer industries were booming, while #StayHome trended globally across media outlets and internet channels.
FEAR STRUCK INDIA BY DAY 5
Wandering the streets of Jodhpur in early March, admiring its famous blue architecture, an Indian couple randomly chanted “Corona, corona!” at me, (as if it was the new “selfie, selfie!”).
No dramas, I brushed off their ignorance. But, I could not ignore how normally cheerful smiles from local Indians were developing into paralysing stares from half-covered faces. Fear was growing in India, and “No Mask No Entry” signs began propping up in restaurant windows. Shortly, the regular tourist attractions closed themselves to foreign and local tourism. It’s only been here a few days, but the warmth I’d known and felt in India once before was blatantly deteriorating in front of my eyes.
Alone for the first time in years, far from home, knowing slowly but surely- things were going to sh*t.
SIGNS AND SPONTANEITY
Various countries were shutting down their countries and the reality of lockdown in India is now seemingly inevitable.
After 5 years, had I really picked the worst time to travel since 9/11? This was one hard pill to swallow.
Disheartened by my reality, I considered cutting my dream trip short and jumping on a flight home after just one week. Consequently, I spent hours lying in my bunk bed in Jaipur glued to the gloomy Coronavirus updates on BBC news.
When serendipity walked through the door. Solo travellers Mia and Ana from Israel and Poland who were moving into my dorm room.
Ana, Soph, Mia (and our Spanish friend Victor!)
“If you want mountains, you should head to Indian Culture Hostel in Rishikesh” Ana cautiously advised with the growing pandemic fears. She describes Rishikesh as nature and spiritual haven with great family vibes in a hostel she’d stayed in near the Holy Ganga River. Her words came as a ray of hope as I wiped tear from my eyes. Already exhausted by this virus that was already ruining most of what I’d planned for the last 5 years.
I hadn’t heard of Rishikesh before this moment. But you may have guessed by now, I have a tendency to act on impulse- and this path felt right. Spontaneously, I booked a 5-hour train in the direction of Rishikesh, to a small town named Bikaner.
SERENDIPITY IN BIKANER
Local attitudes were more relaxed and the grind hadn’t slowed at all in Bikaner. The streets were still bustling with business and barely anyone was wearing a dreaded mask. When serendipity struck again, and I met a French woman named Clara in my Bikaner guesthouse.
Life again hit me with one of those moments that just leave you like… EH?!
Like the universe was sending me another sign, I must have looked dazed for the next few seconds when Clara, coincidentally provided identical advice to Mia.
“Head to Rishikesh- Indian Culture Hostel, they’ll take care of you and this will all be over soon!”. A WTF moment, too miraculous to ignore, I booked my 17-hour train to Rishikesh the very next day for just £6!
TRUSTING THE PATH WHEN PANIC HIT INDIA
“We must let go of the life we have planned, so as to accept the one that is waiting for us”- Joseph Cambell
My train was booked, and I sat sipping chai at 9 pm with some fellow solo female travellers at Prince Haveli’s Guesthouse after a lovely final day exploring Bikaner.
Yet again, totally unprepared for what was to come of the next 30 mins.
Rising Coronavirus numbers had fired up some version of ‘local government’, who abruptly called my Guesthouse in a fit of rage. The irrational tone of voice on the other end of the phone was angrily forcing all guesthouses, hostels and hotels to immediately kick all foreigners out of Rajasthan. My host held his head in his hands, speaking rapidly in Hindi and trying to reason with the officer that it was late and he was hosting 3 solo females travellers.
He translated: “the officer is threatening that government teams will be sent to sanitise the guesthouses and remove us”. They proclaimed that hostel must quarantine us for 14 days, or send us immediately to government facilities in Delhi.
I could not believe my ears. We all sat screw-faced and confused.How was this happening?
No warning or announcement from the Indian government, but panic was at large locally. I covered my tears with my hands, distressed by what my dream trip was turning out to be. Clinging onto hope that I could catch my train to Rishikesh the next day.
Within this bemusing ordeal, I thankfully met Ellie from Argentina and Christine from Germany. Who, amazingly jumped on my plan to head to Rishikesh.
Running on 3 hours sleep!
EN ROUTE: RISHIKESH
Fuzzy headed, and red-eyed, I sat with two female strangers in Bikaner station at 5am. Passing us, locals stared with faces covered (freaked out by those scary foreigners who might be infecting the platform chairs, no doubt).
We weren’t allowed to leave our position, or else risk trouble with the locals and police. We hid at the end of the platform for an excruciating 12 hours in the Indian summer’s heat. Eating oranges and crisps, waiting for our 5pm train to Rishikesh. Hopes and anxieties were high amongst us, and we just desperately wanted to reach Rishikesh without any further issues.
After a 12 hour wait and some sporadic train delays, we ended up taking an exhausting 30-hour journey to Rishikesh! So, I can still distinctly remember the overwhelming sense of relief when the Himalayan mountains began peeking up in the distant blue horizon.
We arrived in Rishikesh at last!
ARRIVING IN RISHIKESH
A mountainous meat and alcohol-free tourist destination, Rishikesh is well known as the yoga and spiritual capitals of the world.
When we arrived, the streets were still populated with travellers from across the globe, any lockdown in India seemed unthinkable. Relaxed locals sat selling bananas, mangos, watermelons, and other fruits on wheeled wooden stalls to passersby. We jumped into a typically old and battered Indian tuk-tuk, costing just 60 rupees (about 65p)- to go 10km from Rishikesh station to Indian Culture Hostel.
The path was rough and rocky. Jackfruit and mulberry trees hung tall above my head, and families of monkeys ran rampant- snatching the ripest pieces of fruit they could. When I entered the rustic 100-yard space, 3 out of 4 dogs (more on Alex in my next post) playfully greeted me. In the reception shack- the owners, Ilona, a cool Argentinian hippie with dreadlocks, and her husband Sankalp, a cheeky-smiled local Indian welcomed us and checked 3 of us into a mixed 6-bed dorm.
I felt an instant community vibe from this tucked-away hostel that two randomers had told me to go.
Home for the forseeable, a large yoga Shala sat in the middle of the land, and a green open space lay lined by twelve bungalow-like homes. A kitchen, four hammocks, 10 staff members, a treehouse and makeshift communal spaces made up the rest of this quirky hostel, which would soon home 60 stranded strangers during lockdown.
The atmosphere was warm, and a mixture of accents and laughter echoed across the grounds as conversations took place in various corners of the hostel.
SILVER LININGS
We didn’t know it yet. But here on the fringes of the Himalayas, a very special sense of community was beginning to form. Where 60 adventurous people from across the globe would have their travel plans paused, and be locked in together for the next 7 weeks.
From the heartbreaking Corona crisis, to being happily stranded during lockdown in India, I ended up being one of the lucky ones. Detailed more in my next post, but heres a heads upwith the song we wrote and made a music videofor! (I’m still getting spotted on the streets for it in different parts of India)- its become a hit!
These turbulent and demanding times in India showed me the beauty in trusting the path when your plans come crashing down. My travel plans were shattered and we’re living in a time of unprecedented global uncertainty. But, during the lockdown in India, I’ve learned so much about myself, human kindness, and connection. It been a transformational and unforgettable experience, and I’m so grateful that I got to experience lockdown in such unique circumstances!
Looking back on old snaps, I found a poem that was sent to me in the early stages of the lockdown in India. It reminded me that not returning home challenged me to overcome change and uncertainty (a nightmare for someone like me, who loves a good plan). To surrender to what I cannot control and trust that it will all work out for the best.
Fear by Kahlil Gibran
It is said that before entering the sea a river trembles with fear.
*She looks back at the path she has traveled, from the peaks of the mountains, the long winding road crossing forests and villages.
And in front of her, she sees an ocean so vast, that to enter there seems nothing more than to disappear forever.
But there is no other way. The river can not go back.
Nobody can go back. To go back is impossible in existence.
The river needs to take the risk of entering the ocean because only then will fear disappear, because that’s where the river will know it’s not about disappearing into the ocean, but of becoming the ocean.
“The river needs to take the risk” stands out in particular. It was simply not an option for me to cut my trip short, and one way or another I was about to experience something amazing.
This is a life lesson for doing what scares you. The lockdown in India for me- meant a time growth, creativity and peace of mind, from a totally unexpected reality.
With more vegetarians than the rest of the world put together, India is recognised as one of the lowest meat consuming countries. Hence, after almost 7 months in India and with October 1st kicking off the start of World Vegetarian Month, I’ve compiled a list of my favourite traditional vegetarian Indian dishes. With links to recipes to try at home below or for your next trip to India, make sure you experience these tasty local Indian foods!
Back in England, most Fridays you can find me and my family ordering a lamb karahi or chicken vindaloo before settling down in front of an episode of Gogglebox.Most of the time, the idea of having a veggie dish is out of the question, unless mum decides to put on one of her bi-monthly ‘special vegan banquets’ with me and my siblings.
Since living in India throughout the lock-down and beyond, I’ve reduced my normal daily consumption of meat to once a month or less. And, because India’s food is as varied as its landscapes and culture, you can always find something different wherever you go.
Food in India
Most Indian dishes are an abundance of spices, flavours and colours making it easily one of my favourite cuisines. A true representation of India’s diverse culture, the variety of culinary delights you can find across this vast country is countless. From street food to restaurant standard, I have tried each one of these dishes and finally combined the best of the best below!
My 8 must-try Vegetarian Indian dishes
1. Masala Dosa
Simply delightful! Masala Dosa is a south Indian delicacy in the form of a thin pancake. Seeing the street vendors prepare this dish is a fascinating watch. First, a blended white lentil and rice batter (great for coeliacs) is spread thinly onto a hot plate. Next, a mixed potato and chilli-spiced filling coats the pancake before folding and flipping the pancake over. A must-try, dosa is commonly served with a selection of tasty dishes including coconut chutney, sambar, and an onion salad.
2. Aloo paratha
If you’ve read my blog post: How to Cook Aloo Paratha Like a Local– you’ll know this Indian dish is the king of kings for me. The flavoured and crispy fried chapati parcel filled with a soft and spicy potato serves as a feast for the taste buds. One of those ‘please don’t end’ types of dishes, stuffed parathas are a North Indian breakfast served commonly with a side of mango pickle and a yoghurt curd.
3. Paneer butter masala
Why is nobody talking about paneer in the UK? Its everywhere in India! Paneer is a white cheese-curd that is commonly known as chhena and a staple part of the native Indian diet. Like most meat substitutes, paneer can be mixed into multiple sauce dishes including Palak Paneer, Paneer Khadari, and my favourite, paneer butter masala! It’s tomatoey, it’s creamy, it’s spicy. Served with chapati and/or rice- paneer butter masala is everything and Indian dish should taste like to me.
4. Chole Bhatura or Chole Puri
Another favourite, just looking at these pictures makes my mouth water reminiscing on these dishes. At first, it was the sheer size of these balloon-like chapatis that caught my eye. It looks like a heavy dish, but 2 bhaturas enjoyed with a side dish of chole (chickpeas in a tasty sauce) or with aloo or samba make a perfect meal!.
5. Masala Uttapam
I’ve tried this dish once from a street vendor in Delhi about a week ago and my god! It serves as a close rival to my favourite- aloo paratha. Like masala dosa, Uttapam is a type of dosa from South India with a thicker and a crispy crepe-like feel. Commonly served with onions, tomatoes, chillies and a side of chutneys, this crispy and filling dish won’t leave you disappointed!
6. Vegetarian burger
Not common, but I’ve occasionally tried veg-burgers in London. However, during my time in India I’ve realised nothing compares to a tiki patty with eggs, salad, and Indian spices in a soft bun. Surprisingly, I’ve started to enjoy vegetarian burgers a lot more often and no longer miss a meaty beef burger!
7. Thali! A win-win to enjoy a variety of dishes!
My diet for the majority of my 7-week lockdown in India! Thali is a combination of tasty dishes, served together on small plates with a side of chapati/naan/puri, salad and rice. Thali for me is a brilliant way to introduce yourself to a variety of dishes in one go in India. The word Thali translates to a plate or a plateful of food, which you will love!
8. Samosas
My on-the-road favourite, samosas are a cheap and savoury dish that you can grab for 10-20rupees from most street food vendors and restaurants! This deep-fried snack is a favourite amongst Indians. Made with white flour and filled with a mix of onions, potatoes, chillies, and garam masala. You’ll also love enjoying it with a sweet tamarind sauce!
With travel looking like a dream in the distant future right now. Why not try sone of these vegetarian Indian dishes? A friend in Germany messaged me recently saying he tested my Aloo Paratha recipe that I learned during the lockdown. Drop me a comment or message to let me know how you get on with testing these delightful Indian foods!
Want to discover one of Colombia’s most enchanting spots?
Tucked in Colombia’s world-famous coffee triangle, the popular yet charming coffee district of Salento is an exquisite destination for coffee and nature lovers alike.
A tranquil escape on your trip to Colombia, this stunning site can be reached in just nine hours from Bogota.
Great sights from great heights- Valle de Corcora
I really didnt know what to expect, but any expectations were quickly surpassed! This small rural town exhibited a colourful and fascinating experience. Home to the world’s tallest palm trees, Salento is the go-to destination for authentic coffee, pretty colonial streets and horseback riding.
Quick facts/Contents:
The journey from Bogota to Salento: 10 hours total including a bus change at Armenia.
How to get around Salento: Primarily by jeep-like trucks called Willies. Also, by horseback, I think Salento is best enjoyed on foot however!
Must-sees/dos: Valley of wax palm trees (Valle de Corcora). Horse riding in the hills, El Ocaso coffee tour, Finca El Sestillal
Multiple bus companies run from Bogota to Salento. So I suggest taking the bus. Not only to reduce your carbon footprint but travelling at night will also save you a night on accommodation!
Arriving at the Terminal de Transporte in Bogota we looked for the booth for our selected bus company. I can recommend Bolivariano for a cost of approximately £18. They had comfy seats, were not too crowded and air-conditioned hurrah!
The ride lasted 8 hours for us, before a bus change at Armenia. The journey can apparently range from 5-9hours! From Armenia, you then catch a 1-hour minibus- which runs from 5AM.
Recommendations for the journey: I remember feeling slightly nauseous on the winding hills to Salento. I recommend carrying car sickness tablets for those with a less strong stomach!
My Top Spots to Eat in Salento
Breakfast Spots:
Coffee Tree Hostel– where we stayed! Every morning they served us pancakes with Nutella, bread with a selection of jams and eggs- Only £5! Brunch de Salento– Offers a delicious menu, and is highly recommended by locals for a proper Colombian brunch.
Lunches and Dinners:
Hamburgueseria El Cacharrito Cheap and cheerful and highly recommended, the chimichurri burger, chips and a drink- equivalent to £10! Casa La Eliana– (As above) this hostel serves excellent Indian curries at cheap prices. Main with rice and drink- £10
My 3-Day Itinerary to Explore and Unwind in Salento
DAY ONE(AM): Dive into nature in Salento’s Valle de Corcora
Rather than taking a well-deserved nap. At 7AM, we spontaneously headed out to take on the 10,000-foot hike to Valle de Corcora. A must-see for every Salentotraveller’s bucket list.
A stunning puzzle of hiking trails, the Valle de Corcora is home to the world’s tallest palm tree. We caught a willy (local jeep taxis) from the central Salento square. Yes, the situation is slightly disorganised. But we eventually arrived by 10AM. Iquickly noticed that everyone was heading off in random directions! This means your hike could vary anywhere from 2-7hours.
It somehow manages to all come together in the end! And though many may plan their route in advance, I thoroughly enjoy the element of surprise!
As Salento has warm weather year-round, carry PLENTY of water (we each carried 2LTRs and I would recommend more!) The hike can last anywhere from 2-7 hours due to the variety of routes. So remember to bring your sunscreen, a camera and solid walking shoes.
The world’s tallest palm trees- which can grow up to 200ft!
A top spot for beauty and relaxation, even if hiking is not your thing!
We took the route which headed straight up to the highest point- Finca La Montaña. After a brief coffee, we headed down via the waterfall and peaceful cow fields. Which seemed to be the easiest route on the knees! Overall, this tranquil destination offers beauty and a comfortably challenging hike for anyone.
**Top tip** The hike can last anywhere from 2-7 hours due to the many routes. Be sure to carry sun cream and plenty of water for all circumstances!
DAY ONE: (PM) Grab a coffee and watch the sunset from the many viewpoints
There’s something incredibly serene about sitting and sipping coffee in Colombia with farmers and their horses trotting by. We stayed at the Coffee Tree Hostel- a grand old farmhouse with a sizeable balcony overlooking the stunning scenery. A 15 min walk from the town centre, The Coffee Tree was an ideal spot to sip some authentic flavours. While watching the sun go down after a busy day on our feet!
DAY TWO (AM): Avoid the Queues and Walk to El Ocaso
Before setting off to Salento, I knew nothing about the village except for its popularity for coffee.
Hence my excitement to take part in a more touristy activity- the El Osaco tour!
More commonly tourists will grab one of the Willie jeeps to Finca el Ocaso. But within just an hour’s walk from central Salento, we decided to walk and avoid the queues!
Just outside the town centre, enjoy the pretty colonial streets all the way down Carrera 5. You’ll come across striking views of the surrounding Colombian landscapes. The 5K walk crosses a mainly flat terrain, charmed by the stillness of the scenery, we saw coffee farms and luscious greenery.
Finca el Ocaso cleverly places motivating quotes to encourage you along the way. However, when you reach the “0 metres left!” sign, another juicy steep driveway awaits you…
DAY TWO (AM): The Finca el Ocaso Coffee Tour
I lovee coffee
While I wouldn’t normally recommend heading to a tourist hotspot (coffee tour in coffee hub..) I have to say this family-run tour was informative and practical. You will learn the entire production process for the yummy coffee this region produces. The demonstration involved us picking ripe berries, and learning the different processing methods for draining, drying and roasting your cherries!
The coffee options range from passionfruit to peaberry. After the tour, you even get to taste a flavour of coffee of your choice. Peacefully, while overlooking the beautiful scenery of the Colombian coffee fields. The little family-run cafe serves a gorgeous plantain lasagne and a side of their cheesy or caramel pastry options!
The perfect spot for Colombian coffee!
DAY TWO (PM): Horse ride up to Finca El Sestillal
With stomachs full of coffee, our energy was higher than normal. We bumped into a local farmer and booked a horse ride up to the Finca El Sestillal- a tranquil sanctuary tucked away in the Colombian mountains. There are many horse ranges offering rides, we booked ours just outside the Coffee Tree Hostel costing just equivalent of just £4!
As we were hoisted onto our horses and ready to learn some riding tips, the owners indicated for us to ride off on our own…
“VAMOS!” they shouted while pointing their fingers.
“Ummm” we replied. Confused, we then laughed while anxiously trying to explain that we needed a guide to lead us (in broken Spanish!) The farmers seemed bemused but eventually agreed.
Just wow, here are some of the views from our trot along the mountains. All the way up to the quiet, and peaceful ranges from Finca El Sestillal.
(DAY 3) AND FINALLY:
For the grand finale of your trip, either relax in the centre, or I highly recommend hiking around the surroundings of Salento. Check out the array of exquisite nature reserved within a 1-2hours walk. Visit the Mirador Reserva Natural Santa Rita and enjoy the waterfall at the Reserva Natural La Patasola. The views from these hiking trails are breathtaking and worth the effort.
I adored my time in this popular destination for backpackers and tourists in Colombia. From hugging the world’s tallest palm tree to brewing my own full-flavoured Colombian coffee! Be ready for a memorable three days in serene Salento!
The Black Travel Movement is gaining momentum across the globe. Yet during my 5-month lock-down in India so far, I have had little-to-no interaction with other Afro-Caribbean travellers. Like most, I am accustomed to this reality and typically, I do not dwell on it. But, when George Floyd’s murder grabbed the attention of the world in May 2020- I became deeply isolated as a solo black female living in India. Distressed, I was triggered to confront and discuss black wellbeing and consciousness on my Indian adventure.
Black is beautiful photoshoot- see the full gallery below
Here’s how my chance encounter in India became a story of liberation, sisterhood, and strength during a heartbreaking time. From this experience- I urge people from all walks of life to use their voices to discuss the urgent issues of racial discrimination and black wellbeing at home and abroad.
Lockdown India: 2 strangers
During a peaceful Indian summer’s day in the early stages of the lock-down in India. Black butterflies glide above soft winds, surrounded by the lush greenery of Rishikesh in the foothills of the Himalayan mountains. In the odd circumstances of COVID-19, 50 other backpackers and I are locked in our hostel together. Unaware of what an already turbulent 2020 would surprise us with next.
“I really love your music Sophia!” a Spanish accent calls out across the backyard one day. While a group of us sat jamming, playing a mix of Protoje, Chronixx, and Damien Marley from my speakers. Her name was Angie, and she smiled, while I proudly sang along, gold African earrings dangling, and a Bob Marley bracelet wrapped around my wrist.
Curls and girls
“Your hair is beautiful,” I say nudging Angie, now the second time we’ve crossed paths at the hostel. Coming from the UK, where black women often tame their natural hair to fit western standards. I’ve always admired luscious and proudly worn Afros.
But this time- she Angie her lips, raises her eyebrows, and glares at me, almost confused. “Come on!” she says, with an unimpressed look on her face. Momentarily twisting my looser and longer curls through her fingers. Her look is one I know well; one seen in the eyes of my many black relatives and friends, one that favours a lighter tone of blackness. A blackness that tends to be seen as ‘more acceptable’ by Western society and thus seen as ‘more beautiful’.
Black girls, different worlds
My lock-down experience in India has been a crucial time for interpersonal connections to develop. Slowly, these short and infrequent interactions with Angela were forming a beautiful sisterhood in a strange period of uncertainty and fear.
Angela- grew up in a predominantly white world. Born into a reality that meant her Angolan father and Spanish Mother had to put her up for adoption. She grew up as the only black child at her school in Spain and was adopted by a loving white couple at a tender age. Without any insight into her Afro-Caribbean heritage, she’s been disconnected from her African roots all throughout her life.
Me- Similarly, I’ve grown up within a loving and predominantly white family. But, with my Jamaican Grandfather present, and attending a majority Black, Asian, and Minority Ethnic (BAME) school in London. I’d had the luxury of being of mixed Jamaican and English heritage- and the presence of both my roots around me in the depths of South London. Further, I studied International Development at university, which significantly deepened my knowledge of recent colonial history and Britain’s present racial injustice.
Unlike Angela, I had a much clearer picture of the systemic racism that exists in the world today.
Little did we know, being the only two BAME people in this hostel in Rishikesh would become so powerful. I have often imagined travel to be an eye-opening experience. But nothing could have prepared me for what was to come in the following weeks. A firm reminder that being black wherever you are in this world means you are subject to a level of trauma that many others will never experience.
George Floyd.
Then came that fateful and disturbing event- on May 25th, 2020. In broad daylight, Derek Chauvin, a white Minneapolis police officer (with an already disturbing track record), took just 8 minutes and 46 seconds to murder an innocent black male. The horrifying clip showed George Floyd- a beloved father, partner, and respected community leader, handcuffed on his stomach as a white officer presses his knee into Floyd’s neck.
All of a sudden, another “is this real?” moment hit home. The frustration, fear, and anger I’ve known and felt too many times before resonated in my heart again.
My mind spun. How many times have we seen the same video, repeated over and over before? I asked. How many? Black men held down and suffocated, black women slaughtered in their own homes. Black children lying dead in the street with a white police officer standing over them, gun in hand?
Another traumatising video, sending waves of devastation into the hearts of the black community again. Each time, videos showed repeatedly on news channels, as white presenters commit to a smear campaign of the innocent dead. Each time reminding us that in 2020, the colour of our skin can still serve as a death sentence.
Devastation
“You’ve lost the shine in your eyes”
Kali, another hostel dweller.
My heart was heavy, but the problem was, in my loving Rishikesh community, no one was really talking about it. “Oh yeah, that black guy killed by police in the US?” responded someone when I mentioned the name ‘George Floyd’ to a group one day. The question rolling off their tongue like this was a normal occurrence. Without knowing it, their concerns felt hollow, as if the issue revolved solely around police brutality. It became clear that the frequency of these atrocities has desensitised many to such unspeakable violations.
I felt as though we’d been conditioned to accept the wickedness of one human pressing his knee into the neck of another human? As he distressingly calls out for his Mumma, narrowly drawing his last breaths?Alone in India, I could not figure out what to do with this pain.
Lost in India
In my devastation, I didn’t want to teach people. I didn’t want to unearth all the horrors I know about racial injustice. It was too hard to face questions fired back at me while attempting to gain some level of empathy. So alone I sat, like an alien in the room. Unfortunately, my loving community could not fully comprehend the levels of systematic injustice that solicit such horrific events. And why I would feel so heavy.
Like i’ve felt amongst white counterparts before, there was an emptiness in their concern- but I could not blame them. How could they really comprehend something so deeply embedded in the minds and systems of countries around the globe? Especially when it has never really affected them or their families? So, I found myself alone in grief, like the only person present at the funeral.
In the midst of this loneliness, I needed to put some of my thoughts into something creative. In early June, I wrote a short piece from my aching heart:
Isolated in Isolation
Still, in lock-down in India, I utilised my days buried beneath Facebook and Instagram posts blowing up on social media. Diving so deep it became borderline addictive. Surrounded by numerous people, but feeling completely alone. My mind felt consumed by frustration in my solitude, watching as life carried on as usual for everyone else. I actively isolated myself in isolation here, waiting for the penny to finally drop.
And while my mother, siblings and friends were out on the streets of London, in unity with other BLM activists, I felt helpless here in Rishikesh. I was existing in a bubble, smiling and nodding so others would believe I was present. But with an invisible barrier dividing us and removing me from the gift of their presence. Hours passed in groups of people. Yet, the conversations I desperately needed were not a priority for the numbers of western travellers here. Distraught, I yearned to figure out how I could do something to free my mind from this trauma. But one day, in this beautiful, yet very Western corner of India, I noticed I’d come across only a handful of other BAME people.
Clarity
Can I allow the possibility that my sons and daughters will be subject to this same discrimination in 5, 10, 30 years time?
My isolation pushed me to explore my options thoroughly- in a rut, was I going to dwell in my grief, or was I going to channel it into something productive? I dug deep, and somehow pulled myself out of the hole I had been free-falling in since I watched that 9-minute video.
Anxiously, I began discussing systemic racism with different people in and around the hostel.Mostly speaking to 2 or 3 people at a time. BAME people often find speaking up about our struggles and addressing systemic racism with people can be so exhausting that we rarely bother. Our traumas are regularly downplayed, our concerns are trivialised, and the constant rejection of how we feel can become deflating. I say this all so that you can understand the depths of sorrow and pain I’d reached. Hurting so badly on my own, I began to put myself out there within my beloved Hostel community.
Reception
The reception was mixed, Marcel from Germany for example, admitted to ‘feeling scared’ the first time he encountered a black person. A fear fed to him only through media and social channels.
“Tell me how racism affects you?” says Mirka from Slovakia. It’s a challenge to get through to people who have never considered the extent of systemic racism. So tactically, I stuck to simple examples like my black friends and I being rejected from white-owned RnB clubs or workplace microaggressions.
With lockdown in place and more time on my hands, I spent days watching documentaries, listening to the music of my favourite black artists, and reading books by fellow black authors. Clearly, I needed to be equipped for questions that would surely be fired back on me. People do not like to hear that they are complicity racist in their ignorance. I have drawn up a list of my key resources to help improve your knowledge here.
Which brings me back to Angie…
Unity
With different backgrounds and upbringings, we knew we had one thing in common. We are two mixed-race females that grew up in Western Europe in the 90s and early 2000s.
In my struggle to rebuild myself, I reached out to Angie to see what her opinions were on this topic engulfing my mind. She was also less aware of systemic racism but intrigued. And starting this discussion with her sparked a unity between us, and we found we had a lot in common after all.
One night over a thali in our hostel Angela said: “You know you’re my first black friend Sophie”. Her reggae and RnB musical tastes so similar to mine said something entirely different. Yet with kindred beats, our connection began growing stronger through the common love for Afro-Caribbean music. Another night, Angie was keen for me to talk her through the lyrics of songs we both loved including Black is Beautiful by my icon, Chronnix.
Finding Peace
The more we spoke the more I could see her begin to radiate from within, and me the same. Days passed and I saw a glow shine from her eyes as we discussed topics she had never discussed with anyone before.
Being the only black child in a white school, growing up adopted by white parents and also not speaking native English, the lyrics of her favourite reggae artists held a completely new meaning. Creating unity through reggae and soul artists that had been expressing messages of discrimination for decades before us.
And equally, I was beginning to feel fulfilled. From feeling completely alone to helping a fellow sister. Angela became a beacon, a powerful reminder of what’s important to me, to us, as a community. To educate people across the world on the pandemic that is racism, which continues to infect the lives of people across the world. A disease that infiltrates the lives of at least a quarter of the world’s population, due entirely to the shade of their skin.
Black is Beautiful, photo shoot
With this newfound connection, we decided to channel this positive energy into something creative. The”Black is beautiful” photoshoot resembled the strong unity in our sisterhood and soon partnered with Hannah Kern from hannahshappinessproject.com. Yet someone else I could relate to. Hannah recognises herself as an ally to the BLM movement, and in her exquisite poetry recites the urgent need for white peers to raise their voice in this fight.
Taking part in this photo-shoot was like breathing fresh air again. I felt inspired, I felt empowered, and most importantly, I felt like someone was listening to me. From my little corner in India, amidst one of the most bizarre times in modern human history, I am both seeing and inspiring change in the community around me. By using my voice to uplift my people. I have found a way to educate those who have lived in an ignorant bliss for most of their lives.
Together, I hope our photoshoot, and Hannah’s video will inspire anyone who views this article. To never be ashamed to use their voice or privilege to implement permanent change, and finally help to abolish systemic racism once and for all.
I was unable to attend the protests.
I couldn’t discuss the issue or the solutions with the people around me.
But I could help Angie, and she helped me in ways I will forever appreciate. I urge everyone, travelling or in their home countries to use their privilege to discourage any racist behaviourthey witness. The movement must be kept alive and we must call out those individuals who continue to perpetuate discrimination in 2020.
Black Lives Matter, in fact they have always mattered – I matter, and so do you. This revolution has been 400 years in the making, and we are seeing it televised. We have so much farther to go, but we are getting there, one conversation at a time.
http://hannahshappinessproject.com/
Hannah is a zero-waste, vegan, feminist and happiness activist who travels solely by bicycle. Her project and content is thought-provoking and authentic as she thrives to empower women across the world and inspire a global happiness movement.
Follow her travel journey on two-wheels on Instagram @hanshappinessproject
Aloo paratha is a North- Indian specialty that defines simply delicious Indian food. One of my favourites, aloo paratha is a traditional Indian breakfast comprising of grated potato, red onion, chilli and mixed Indian spices filling that is packaged into a fried whole-wheat flatbread. A practical, cheap, and tasty dish, Aloo Paratha is a must for anyone interested in real Indian cooking!
My continued lock-down in India over the last 10 weeks has been a great time to learn new skills. And teaming up with a staff member at my hostel, I’ve detailed a home-cooked aloo paratha recipe to share!
After asking nagging one of the Indian hostel staff for a few days, cooking this dish with a local revealed just what a delight it is.
For me this dish is all about getting the potato to bread quantity right- and no offence to restaurants, but there is nothing like home-cooked Indian food!
Key tip: a little extra potato makes all the difference…
Moreover, no side dishes are required! Aloo paratha is enjoyed by local Indians accompanied with a mango or spicy pickle and thick curd. Despite having a big appetite, two of these is more than enough for me!
Ingredients: (Per 2 parathas)
Indian style, my companion and I did not measure ingredients, so in this post I will detail what we used alongside a simple visual guide of how you can home-cook this delicious dish. It worked for me!
8-10 x small potatoes
Mixed (preferably masala) spices.
1/2 x tsp tumeric
1 x tsp Red chilli powder
1 x Red onion (very finely chopped)
Green chilli
Whole-wheat flour
1 x handful of fresh finely chopped coriander
1x tbsp Cayenne pepper (to taste)
Pickle or curd for dipping!
Method:
Prepare the dough:
Mix whole wheat flour, 2 x tsp of oil, water and salt to taste until you get a soft and smooth dough-like consistency.
Next knead dough for at least 2-minutes so that it is not sticky and easy to roll.
Then let the dough sit in a pot for at least 10 minutes while you prepare the filling. Cover the pot with a damp cloth.
Aloo Paratha- Hebbar’s Kitchen
As per the above from Hebbar’s Kitchen on making aloo paratha, the dough should have a smooth, non sticky texture.
Making the filling:
For the second stage of this dish, begin by half-boiling your potatoes (skin on) in boiling water for approximately 5 mins.
The potatoes should be done enough for the skin to easily fall off.
When slightly soft peel off potato skins and set aside.
Then grate your softened potatoes on a standard grater into a soft texture.
The potato is the base of your filling and I always like a little extra. With practice you’ll figure out the balance of potato to bread that works best for you.
Add finely chopped onion and green chilli to to the mashed potato.
You can vary with the spices to fit your taste. Below is approximately what I used that gave a tasty and spicy blend with the potato:
1/4 tsp turmeric powder
1/2 tsp cayenne pepper
1 tsp Garam masala
Salt and pepper
1 x handful fresh coriander
Mix all together too a well blended texture.
Pull it together:
Where the magic happens…
You want to grab a small piece of the ready prepared dough and roll it to a thin pancake (approx 1/2 cm thick).
Grab a scoop of the filling, and place in the middle of the pancake.
Don’t overfill- one heaped tbsp is enough!
You then want to cup the pancake in your hand and begin folding and pinching the pastry together into a little parcel.
No doubt this part can be tricky but be patient with getting the right balance of filling to pastry. On the contrary, a thinner layer of pastry in some areas will nicely cook the potato filling.
Make a little ball and then roll this out again into a filled pancake. Your masterpiece is now ready to cook!
Begin warming a non-stick pan with no oil, and carefully place the pancake in the pan.
While the first side is cooking drizzle a small amount of sunflower or vegetable oil on top of the pancake. It will drain through onto the pan and help cook the paratha.
Chef Ajay in action!
For the professionals, otherwise flipping with a spatula will do!
After 5-10 mins of cooking your paratha should have this golden brown crisp colour too it and voilà!!! Your delicious dish is ready to enjoy with a side of your choice. This dish is often enjoyed with a side of pickle and curd.
I look forward to hearing how you get on with this recipe, please let me know! Better yet, you can play around with this recipe and try your own styles, get in contact, i’d love to hear what you create!
Well what a wild start to this journey that was! Just a month ago I was boarding a plane to India, bawled my eyes out saying goodbye to loved ones and the world still felt relatively normal… Yet, three days after I arrived in Delhi, the W-H-O declared COVID-19 as a global pandemic, and President Modi revoked all travel visas restricting any more tourists from entering India.
Meant to be? Hard not to think so- see Quarantined in India- how I ended up happily stranded.
The last month:
After one week, I’d celebrated Holi with locals in the slums of Delhi, paid way too much for a tuk-tuk ‘tour’ in Jaipur and watched a stunning sunset from the heights of Jodhpur’s blue city. I really wanted to get away from tuktuks tooting in Rajasthan and have now spent 3 weeks in North India’s popular destination of Rishikesh! By chance, the universe has brought me here, hadn’t actually planned to visit Rishikesh!
Currently writing from a hammock in a large and homely hostel that comes with a view of the Himalayan mountains. (Thank f*ck!)
Nevertheless, while its felt like tensions and fear was growing around the rest of the world, the hustle and bustle and natural hospitality of the Indians continued as normal.
I’m used to looking like a local wherever I go, but it’s always hilarious to watch locals have to double take at me, never sure if my mixed skin tone and big curly hair could make me a native or not!
In mid-March, I arrived in Bikaner and found that some locals would shout “Corona, Corona!” as if it had become the new “selfie, selfie!”. On day 1, I met Christine from Germany, and on day 2 we were kicked out of our hostel in Bikaner and instructed apparently by ‘local governors’ to go to Delhi to be quarantined! The same night we met Ellie from Argentina and decided to stick together as the #CoronaSisters!
That didn’t happen. We made it to Rishikesh safely and lucky enough to a community of foreigners who had been through similar experiences.
We are now 3 weeks in Rishikesh, and the lockdown has just been extended till April 30th. During the past month anxiety has hit every so often with the doubts: How long will I be here? How long will my travel plans will be halted for? Should I go home? What is going on with the world?!
Profoundly I have found a beautiful family here amidst all the doom an gloom in the world. We have 50+ people locked in our hostel, sharing, cooking, relaxing, teaching and being together, as if it was some kind of retreat from life!
Some of the crew!
I keep having to stop and accept the blessing that brought me here (I hadn’t planned to come to Rishikesh). And in these few weeks of lockdown I have begun to accept the present and lessons I am learning. No doubt this situation is arousing thoughts, feelings and understandings in ways I didn’t think possible. But it feels they are learnings that will carry me on the right path when my journey resumes.
So my stats for MONTH 1:
Places visited: Delhi, Jaipur, Jodhpur, Bikaner and Rishikesh!
Trains taken: 4
Buses taken: 0
Favourite hostel: Indian Culture in Rishikesh!
Best meal: Spicy/cheese masala dosa with butterscotch milkshake at Jantra Sweet home in Jodhpur!
SO…Daily spend in first month = £9.91 per day! Literally what I’d spend on an average lunch in London has covered my daily cost in India!!!
A quote to sum up March for me:
You can’t change a past that has already happened. You can’t control a future that is relatively unknown. That leaves us with the present, right now”
For now, this is not the trip I planned but I will remain quarantined here for the foreseeable. Things are changing so fast that I have to take each day as it comes. As do all of us wherever we are!
Despite its touristy status, Jaipur was high on my list of must-sees on my second visit to India.
Jaipur is famously known as India’s pink city due to its salmon-coloured architecture. Yet within 24 hours of arriving I’d learned my first major lesson about saving the green! $$$
Photo by Anja- Instagram @Wandruska
I’d planned to scoot through Rajasthan and get the major cities out of the way before heading towards the luscious green states of Uttrakhand & Himachal Pradesh.
Arriving in Jaipur
After an exhausting 2 days at India’s annual Holi Festival in Delhi, I distinctly remember feeling a sense of relief when arriving in Jaipur and an Indian gentleman offered to help carry my backpack to his tuk-tuk. My mind was still fuzzy from two days of powder paints, too many beers, and partying purely with locals, I’d taken an early 5-hour train to Jaipur- and just wanted to get back into bed!
Little did I know that within seconds of arriving, I’d been caught by my first Indian scam…
How? Because Jaipur is a hotspot for tourists in Rajasthan. And these guys know the many tricks of the trade. Read on for how to avoid tourist scams and save money in Jaipur!
Jaipur- The Pink City of Rajasthan
Home to two million, Jaipur offers numerous opportunities to see ancient forts, cultural gems, and instagrammable spots (see below). Thus, from your first step onto the station, you will find a plethora of tuk-tuk drivers willing to show you around.
Unfortunately, I’d read online that the most convenient way to see this pretty city was to arrange a deal with a local tuk-tuk driver. From which this man seemed perfect. Varkhil spoke clear English, carried my bag, and presented me with a portfolio of positive reviews he and his uncle Khan had received during their “14-year tour service”. Impressed, I agreed to meet them to discuss a 3-day tour of Rajasthan including a visit to the City Palace, Amber Fort, Water Palace, an elephant sanctuary, and a local village ‘untouched by tourism’.
Red flags to spot early on… (that I didn’t):
Avoid going with the first tuk-tuk driver you meet. Ask around and agree on a price before you get into any vehicle.
When I asked for the tuk-tuk cost- Varkhil responded simply with “No money needed”…. We believe in good karma :). This is a good way for drivers to try and earn your trust early. And easily one thing can lead to another.
He also informed me “Not to trust any hostel (who are the real scam artists)”… 🙂 Be skeptical of this kind of uninformed advice. As I learned during my stay at Backpackers HQ. They offered nothing but kindness and genuine advice.
Generally, if be weary id it seems they are doing too much for a 20minute tuk-tuk ride!
So… Day 1 Itinerary: My Experience in Jaipur with a tuk-tuk driver.
The Elephant Sanctuary, Monkey Temple, a spice shop, and a meal at a ‘not-so-local’ Indian restaurant.
1st stop: Breakfast at a local Indian spot
One of my favourite Indian delicacies, Lassi is a sweet fresh yoghurt drink, and this one was fresh with hints of pineapple and mango flavours. Yum! And costing just 30rupees at a place named Lassiwala, Varkil was quickly gaining bonus points from me.
At this point, I was still toying with whether I could trust this guy and kept my wits about me. Next door, he took me to a very decent local food place for a typical paratha thali dish and I paid 140r for. Not bad, not bad!
Paratha and thaliSweet lassi
2nd stop: Monkey Temple- Your camera’s entrance fee is more than yours!
While the official name is Galta Ji, many locals refer to the sacred site as Monkey Temple due to the thousands of independent monkeys that reside here. From arrival, you will discover its intriguing and peaceful scenery, with temples tucked atop the distant hills, making it feel similar to King Louis’s scene out of the Jungle Book.
While these little terrors are known to cause havoc in India, it was satisfying to find families of monkeys roaming freely together. Monkeys playing, monkeys eating, leaping and cruising the serene premises of the temple grounds.
Cost: Varkhil informed me that it was free to enter, but this would not be the first time my tour guide was feeding misinformation. Monkey Temple will actually cost you 100rs to enter, and by surprise it also cost me 150rs to bring my camera or smartphone inside. “This cost is very new Miss Sophia, in the last week even” Varkhil defended.
I visited in 2020, and after some research I see online that people have been paying for this attraction since 2017 at least. Total: 250rs
3rd: Visit to the Elephant Sanctuary– PRICEY, but a genuine interaction with these beautiful creatures!
I was hesitant arriving at the sanctuary and made it clear to my host that I was not going to commit to any part of animal interactivity without checking the conditions. Albeit, the atmosphere of the sanctuary, the character of the staff and the aura of the elephants took me by surprise and felt humbling, tranquil, and genuine.
Getting ready for their feed!
I was delighted to be greeted two very giant and happy elephants!
The host explained that My Elephant Trip is an elephant sanctuary/charity accommodated by 11 rescued elephants. Unlike the less popular ‘Elephant village‘ which has horrendous reviews and conducts elephant rides, this place did not advertise or permit riding on the elephants at all, and I did not see any elephant rides taking place.
The cost is another story. As mentioned on many online forums a lot of the elephant attractions in Jaipur quite distinctly miss off the price on their websites. I ended up paying 4500rs for a 90 minute experience including:
Meet and greet, hug and spiritual interaction the elephants
Feed- loved watching eat elephant grab and shove 5 unpeeled bananas down their throats
Bathe and paint
And the best part: A walk WITH the elephants and not ON them!
Going for a chat with Shanti
Overall I’d say this experience was a positive one and much better than other experiences I’ve had with elephants in the past. Whether the price is accurate or not, (likely my guide earned a healthy commission), I felt satisfied that the majority of my donation went towards the sanctuary. This seemed the best place to help protect these creatures from those with more commercial interests.
Finishing day 1: Spice shop and meal at a (not so local) restaurant
To finish the day, my host pressed me to “only look” and “experience” some local spices at a spice shop. Despite insisting that I didn’t have enough space in my backpack, I was goaded with multiple cups of chai tea and information about all the benefits of these local spices. Result: shrugged and 500rs spent on a 100g bag of masala spice and 200g of Darjeeling tea. There was no doubt more commission was gained here. As I later learned this should have cost roughly 100rs.
Finally, Varkhil decided to take me to a “local spot” for some “real local food”- incorrect again…
I paid 500rs on a paneer curry, 2 parathas, and 2 cups of chai tea at Hotel Vaishnavi rooftop restaurant. Filled only with tourists and their respective ‘guides’. It did not feel local at all, and, to be honest, the food was pretty bland. Nevertheless, being only 4 days into India, I let myself off on forgetting how cheap good food can cost.
Overall, day 1 was full on, and I couldn’t kick the feeling that I had been cheated in some way or another. As I tallied my costs, I worked out my days outgoings to be roughly 7000rs or £75!! A massive spend for one day in India- that otherwise probably could have been halved without my ‘tour guide’.
Day 2- SOLO: Local experiences, Water palace, Pink city & Amber fort
*Counting my pennies* I was lucky enough to meet two other solo backpackers who gave me a reality check on cash spending in India. Naively, in the early days of my trip, I’d felt I got a decent price for all the activities of the day before, but I listened to their advice, met Varkhil, and paid him off with (500rs).
In effect, taking to the road on day 2, I avoided tuk-tuks completely reducing my costs to only 1000rs (£10) total for the day!
And as I usually discover, taking the local route gave me a much more unique and authentic experience to discover Jaipur. And despite what some blogs say, you can easily see Jaipur without a tuk-tuk!
Overall, the most helpful buses hitting the places we wanted to see included route numbers; #5, #11, and #3. Bus numbers are displayed on the front, but we found the best way was just to ask a conductor or listen for someone shouting the destination!
1st stop: Water Palace
We headed out taking an easy 20min walk from our hostel, Backpackers HQ– and arrived at the Water Palace. All along the way being hounded by tuk-tuk drivers shouting different amounts at us but ignoring their chants.
2nd stop: Amber Fort
From the water palace, you can then jump on a local bus to the Amber Fort. There little information around bus journeys in Jaipur, perhaps to lure tourists into getting tuk-tuks. Hence, your best bet is to ask around and find a helpful local who can point you in the right direction! We took the bus number 5 and within 20 minutes, arrived at this beauty!
Taken by @wandruska who I met in Jaipur- check out her photography on IG!
A real beauty, according to some tours, the Amber fort receives more annual visitors than the Taj Mahal! Albeit, many blogs however suggest otherwise such as: Never Ending Footsteps- How not to spend a day in Jaipur. Even though I did not book a tour, it seems we had a pretty similar experience. 🙂
The fort, built in 1592 will cost you approximately 500rs to enter to see the entire setting. Be weary, seeing the entire fort will take you roughly two hours. I chose not to, feeling pretty satisfied with walking around the main grounds before the entrance of the fort. As per below we caught some lovely pics!
4th stop: Local markets, Albert Hall and cost friendly food and henna!
I find such a joy in exploring streets without anyone guiding you round. It feels raw, authentic and like you are getting a unique experience that could not be repeated. The best way to get a raw account of Jaipur is to wander the streets and ask locals when you need help!
Finishing day 2: Patrika Gate at sunset!
Finally, we headed a little out of the old town and took the bus number 3 to Jawahar Circle. Boasting the largest circle-shaped park in Asia, the Jawahar Circle is guarded by the beautiful hand-painted Patrika gate at its entrance.
All shades of this pink and gold stature lit-up as the sun began to set over Jaipur. With its articulately designed pillars, each arch contains paintings that uniquely represent significant stories of about the history of the Rajasthan state.
The beauty of the arches attracts visitors from around the world. All aiming to achieve the perfect shot, the best time to visit would be between 6.30-8.30am to avoid the crowds. As below you see how the majority of my shots looked before catching the perfect shot!
Not easy getting them to move! But when they did…
After pleading with the locals
Finishing day 2 with locals: good food, quality henna and local markets.
We finished our day exploring the markets of Jaipur in the Ramchandra Chaukari district. Owing to its tourists status, you might feel overwhelmed by the number of shop owners shouting “come into my shop!”, “just a look mam- looking costs nothing” kind of comments. Drive a hard bargain if you wish to buy anything, but otherwise simply decline, and keep moving with confidence.
Amusingly, I then discovered the real cost of henna in India, after paying 400rs for one side of my hand in Delhi. In this quarter of Jaipur I got some brilliant henna costing just 200rs for both sides of my hands and arm!
Local food:
I recommend you grab a thali at BMB Sweetshop Restaurant, much more generous than the recommended CMB restaurant which offers a pricier and less local feast. The food at Bombay Mishthan Bhandar was spicy and tasty, and my meal totaled 240rs for a thali, lime soda and chai!
To summarise
So… unless of course, you wish to spend 10 times the amount you would exploring the city like a local. My experience on day two is how to see Jaipur solo and avoid tuk-tuks completely giving you a uniquely local and cost-friendly experience.
It was March 2019, and I was sat in a pool in a local pousada in Paraty, Brazil when ‘Beauty in a Backpack’ sprouted from the depths of my thoughts. Besides being slightly fuzzy-headed from 3 days of rum pouring, sound systems blazing, and eccentric outfits at the colourful Rio carnival. With a few moments to myself, I suddenly had this overwhelming feeling of happiness that reminded me: travel is my life and my priority. At that moment I promised myself the next year would mean 1) guarantee to hit your travel savings goal and 2) to start a travel blog!
Briefly, in this post I’m going to share a low down on me, my plans and my ongoing love affair with solo travelling the world!
To begin, we fast forward a year to now, with just 2 weeks before my solo trip through Asia, Australia and Africa (ahh!)
“To my mind, the greatest reward and luxury of travel is to be able to experience everyday things as if for the first time, to be in a position in which almost nothing is so familiar it is taken for granted.”- Bill Bryson
10 brief bits about me:
My name is Sophia, I’m 26 years old, and I’m currently living in South London.
I have worked 7 jobs in the last 5 years, working/learning the ropes as a self employed IT Business Analyst and Project Manager.
In 2015 I completed a bachelors degree in Economics and International Development.
I live with my Mum-Ma not-so-little sister and little brother at our family home in South London. Like all families we drive each other mad, and equally the love is stronger than words could say.
I believe in dream setting, manifesting and achieving your goals as a first priority.
I’m one of 9 children in total… 🙂 From a mixed heritage family of Jamaican/English.
My dream (eventually) is to have the financial freedom to travel for 9months of every year for the rest of my life, exploring new cultures and scenery beyond my imagination.
I am completely in love with the idea of travel for good. Likewise, I intend to travel slow, sustainably and volunteer while working with local people along the way.
I hate mustard with a passion, yet love pretty much all other food!
I adore music from all walks of life, admit my soul connects mostly with Reggae, Noughties RnB and jazz music.
10 reasons I’m choosing to travel:
To experience life without all the conveniences that i’m used to…I want to live minimalist and experience the world with just me and a backpack!
To live and learn from local people, and get an insight into the history, culture and environment that make each corner of the earth unique.
To enjoy new and exciting foods! I am a massive foodie and want to learn how to cook foods from across the globe.
I want to improve my photography, I LOVE taking pictures of sunsets and people going about their day to day lives.
To work with grass-root NGOs and get some practical experience alongside my Economics & International Development degree!
To spend more time with nature! And avoid spending 50+ hours of my week at a desk, on a tube or in a sweaty gym.
To travel solo and long term allows me to really have a life changing experience.
To dive! I secured my PADI qualification in 2019 and can’t to do it again! Particularly the Moyo Islands in Indonesia!
To slow down, be inspired, and find inner peace with the world. I’ve been working in the rat race of London for 5 years and I’m ready to see more of what life has to offer!
I love spontaneity, I could continue working and earning on a high paid salary, get a mortgage and pay it off for the next 30 years… But we literally have one life and what fun would that be?!
Where my slow travel itinerary will take me:
I’ve only booked one flight and one hostel so far as I plan to travel on land and sea for the majority of the trip. Conversely if I need to take flights I aim to make this as infrequent and short haul as possible! And carbon offset these journeys.
The trip begins in March 2020, and should last 18 months-2 years.
I’ll be following a global itinerary i’ve never seen posted anywhere before (so we’ll see how good my logistical planning skills are along the way!) With Asia and Africa being such an integral part of my degree. I wanted to cover a route that saw both those continents mainly, as well as spending Christmas with a relative in Australia. Where I also intend of visiting a few spots in Australasia!
SO, the route will begin in South Asia starting with a revisit to India followed by a trip to Sri Lanka (Shares a top 3 spot with Vietnam and Ghana). I will likely spend 2-3 months in this region before making the journey over to South East Asia for the remaineder of 2020. There, I’ll hit up Thailand, Cambodia, Laos Vietnam and Malaysia before heading to Indonesia and Timor Leste for my birthday in October. To keep my carbon footprint low, I intend on completing the most of that period by train and on land. Hey, I may even practice some boat hitch-hiking along the way!
Following, I will work my way down from North Australia down the west coast till I get to Melbourne to spend Christmas with family in Aus. I have seen some awesome train routes through Australia on Seat 61 that I cannot wait to try!
After Christmas I’ll probably make my way to New Zealand before continuing my trip through Australia and make my way to Perth.
Finally, I plan to take one of my longest flights from Perth to Johannesburg where I face my biggest challenge. Backpacking through Africa is still wildly surprising to many so many people! My interests in black history (combined with my genetics) is the reason Africa has been top of my list for so long. No doubt there will be challenges. But I just can’t wait to start leaning amazing things and get this journey going!
Exactly 3 weeks from now, all my plans, thoughts, nerves and dreams of the last 5 years will come to fruition, when I touch down in Delhi and at last, begin my long term round-the-world trip!
The next three weeks will probably shoot by, and what has been a dream for so long is starting to feel very real. I’ve caught myself feeling slightly naïve and equally overwhelmed by the long list of tasks to complete!
The last 3 months:
I’ve looked like (THIS) a lot of the time! Laptop open, working from home, hair in a bun and Dave chilling on my arm!
Keeping you up?
So, what have I been up to…?
1. Bought a backpack
It took over a month of deliberating, but I’ve pulled the plunge and finally bought a backpack! I’ve had an ongoing battle in my mind between the Osprey Kyte 66L vs the Osprey Fairview 70L. Finally deciding on the latter!
2. Decluttered my life
I’ve started clearing my mountain of clothes! And recycling, selling & shifting all the bits & pieces that has collated over the years. I’ve donated 3 recycling bags full of clothes so far, and it feels like I’ve barely scratched the surface.
No mind, the packing itinerary has a few more refinement stages…
Yes, I wish you could come to Dave…
3. Vaccinations
I knew I had to pay for vaccines, but woah little did I know how much they’d cost! Despite being pretty covered from my Colombia/Brazil (insert) trip in 2019, I’ve spent £440 on vaccinations to protect me on my trip. They’ve included:
Japanese Ensphyilitys (£95 x 2 shots)
Rabies (3 shots x £75)
Hepatitis B (3 shots x £35)
4. Invested in travel gizmos
I’ve had to restrain myself here, but luckily, I’ve been surrounded by great family and friends who thoughtfully also had my trip in mind over Christmas! My favourite… These Gonex Compression Packing cubes… Now I get the hype!
I’ve done plenty of research on overland itineraries over the last few months, and how I can carbon offset by taking as few flights as possible.
Over the next 3 weeks?
1. See my peeps!
Leaving people is always hard, so making the most of the next few weeks to see my loved ones as much as possible. My grandma and my dog especially!
2. Country-specific activities and food
While I regularly jot down notes in my extensive travel excel sheet. I need to create a dedicated food and activities section and write these down before I get caught up in the travel buzz.
3. Buy a travel laptop
Leaning towards the surface book pro 2- any other (non-apple) suggestions are appreciated though! Update- I bought a Microsoft Surface Pro 4. Review pending…
4.Sort out onward travel (requirement to enter India)
Alongside fixing and selling my bike tomorrow, I need to figure out where my next stop after India will be (maybe Nepal, maybe Sri Lanka?!) Proof of onward travel is required, so I need to figure out some dates ASAP!
The best is yet to come and I’m soooo here for it! 😀
