With low European prices, quirky hostels, charming towns and ample nature, turn down the tempo with these 8 ideas to experience slow travel in Bulgaria.
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Gliding over the golden rooftops of central Sofia, I stared out of the plane window and pondered on this next step of my travels. As I’d quit my job in London a few months earlier, I landed in Bulgaria without plans or a return ticket. The main purpose of my trip was to visit a friend and I arrived in a quiet Sofia at the cusp of the spring season.
Landing in Bulgaria (and Eastern Europe) for the first time, I was both excited and sceptical. With the occasional report of racism in Bulgarian football and the wider media, I’d imagined some funny looks and snowy scenes in a potentially more hostile country.
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But over the course of my travels this year, partly solo, partly with friends, partly volunteering abroad on projects with Workaway and Worldpackers. Those preconceived notions of Eastern Europe changed (drastically). So much so that I ended up extending my trip to slow travel in Bulgaria for 2.5 months this year. I fell in love not just with Bulgaria’s ancient monasteries and stadiums, but with the luscious hiking trails, unique local dishes, traditional dress, quaint book shops, and most importantly, the warm hospitality of the Bulgarian locals. From the Black Sea to the majestic mountains, Bulgaria became the cornerstone of my European travels this year.
A few people have asked about my visit to Bulgaria and my recommendations for places to visit. So here we are, my travel highlights from this beautiful country and my recommendations to inspire you to slow travel in Bulgaria.
[ez-toc]Slow Travel Bulgaria: A Brief on Culture and History
Nudged between Romania, Greece and the Black sea, Bulgaria is a charming and geographically small country, known as the “big brother” of the Balkan region. Perhaps, due to its reign as the oldest nation in Europe, Bulgaria has kept its name since 681 when the country was first established. From there, this small country’s history blends a concoction of Roman and Greek empires. Plus, an emergence in 1908, after nearly five centuries of Ottoman rule.
Bulgaria boasts a mix of Western and Eastern cultures. Evident in the country’s cuisine, architecture and locals who carry tradition in their language and fashion. No doubt, you may feel challenged at points with menus in the Cyrillic alphabet. Be prepared to use Google Translate and soak up Bulgarian culture in country that protects its language against Western infiltration.
Slow travel in Bulgaria means immersing yourself in the local culture and enjoying the simple things in life. It is about taking time to engage local people, getting outdoors and exploring without a fixed plan. It’s about having fun while volunteering on a local project or snorkelling on the black sea. There are many ways to slow down your pace of life and let yourself enjoy Bulgaria at its best.
Slow Travel Bulgaria: How to get there and how long to stay?
For those without an EU passport (UK citizens now included) Bulgaria is a perfect crossroads country as it is outside of the Schengen zone. Long-term travellers can enjoy 90 days of visa-free stay and it’s easy to reach Bulgaria by bus & train routes from Croatia, Turkey, Romania and Germany.
Train connections between Bulgaria and Europe are shown on this map by Seat61.
Additionally, I used FlixBus multiple times during my 6 months of backpacking in Europe this year. A reliable coach company offering comfortable coach journeys across Europe. Below you can see how well-connected Sofia is to Western Europe and to the East towards Turkey and Asia!
Bulgaria is a great place to travel slow. By taking your time you’ll discover lush hiking trails, lively local cuisine and more than 700 mineral hot springs. For all this, I would suggest at least 3 weeks in Bulgaria to really get a feel for this country. From cultural Plovdiv to historic Veliko Tarnovo and bustling Sofia, discover this generous slow travel destination, comparatively untouched by tourism.
To this day, when asked, “is Bulgaria worth visiting?“
I’d answer “100% yes” every time.
[ez-toc]1. Slowly wander the streets of Bulgaria’s Capital- Sofia
It wasn’t long before I realised what my best friend meant when she’d described Sofia as a “slow, sleepy city”. Immediately, my senses widened as I strolled along the calm and pretty Vitosha Boulevard. A wide 2.7km pedestrian street that runs through Sofia’s historic centre.
A scenic stroll will lead you through this capital’s rich cultural history, beautiful architecture and abundance of food options. I think the best way to discover Sofia is on foot or by electronic scooter or via the efficient (and very low-cost) metro service for further distances.
Beyond the Ladies’ street market and blue & yellow tulip gardens. You might find the great St. Alexander Nevski Cathedral in the Serdika neighbourhood- reigning as Sofia’s most iconic landmark. In addition to golden and green rooftops, the towers are adorned with mosaic ceilings. Further, discover Saint Nikolas Russian Church and the Rotunda Church of St George- The oldest building in Sofia.
Nearby, there are plenty of open green spaces and street performers along the boulevard. Plus, a number of enticing restaurants, and great shopping opportunities. Floating around this city is a delight for food, art and book lovers like me. Float around the streets and enjoy quaint reading cafes or join a local food tour to sample Bulgarian cuisine.
Also read: A photojournal of Venice & Burano
2. Retreat to one of Bulgaria’s 700 Mineral Hotsprings
Unlike Budapest, Bulgaria does not boast about its impressive 700+ mineral springs across the country (no shade Hungary). As such, most tourists do not know such places exist and they remain affordable, and mainly catered to locals. It is known that the mineral springs have been around since Roman times and were used for therapeutic and healing purposes.
Enjoy steaming hot bathtubs and ice-cold plunge pools for an affordable price. Try to visit Bulgaria’s hot springs on a weekday to avoid crowds. I recommend the Kotvata Mineral Spa Centre costing only 20levs (£8ish). It’s accessible with a one-hour drive or 2-hour bus for the more budget/adventurous traveller. Conveniently, this bus runs from the Central bus station in Sofia to Dupnitsa every 60 minutes. And from the city of Dupnitsa, you can take a direct public bus to Sapareva Banya every 30 minutes.
Enjoy jacuzzis, and whirlpools, plus food, drinks and herbal teas in the remote and beautiful scenery of the geothermal springs. Plus a great number of RnB and reggae tracks played while we enjoyed a drink on the sunbeds.
Tip: I made the mistake of wearing silver to the hot springs. The waters are filled with sulphur and other minerals, so remove all jewellery to avoid bronzing!
3. Visit the Old Medieval Capital of Europe’s Oldest Country
Top of my slow travel Bulgaria list has to be exploring the Medieval capital of Veliko Tarnovo. A green and mountainous town where an array of restaurants line cobbled streets and medieval architecture. I jumped for joy as the sun shone brightly over the surrounding hills of this Northern Bulgarian town.
Also known as the ‘City of the Tsars’ (or kings), derived from the grand Tsaravets Fortress in the centre of Veliko Tarnovo. The tower is shouldered by the Yantra river (the largest in Northern Bulgaria) and sits among acres of green hills and traditional townhouses.
The fortress costs 10 levs to enter. Purchase tickets from the office outside of the main fortress gate or online!
Top suggestions for Veliko Tarnovo- My Favourite Place in Bulgaria
Firstly, soak up the beauty with a coffee (particularly the cappuccino) and breakfast/lunch at Rich’s restaurant. An affordable and local family restaurant with stunning views. Also, spend some time wandering up to the Tsaravets fortress and enjoy a tasteful lunch at one of the local restaurants in the traditional homes located on Gurko Street. Be sure to venture along one of the hiking routes towards ‘the swing of love’ located in the Garga Bair area- there’s a very good blog on reaching the swing here. Otherwise enjoy a drink and a meal at a local restaurant in the centre of Veliko Tarnovo. Finally, the ‘Hippie bar’ in the centre of town runs exciting events. I enjoyed a random jazz festival on the streets!
4. Experience Food and Street Art in the Culture Capital of Plovdiv
Oh wonderful Plovdiv, I miss you.
I mean, Plovdiv and I did not get off to a great start. When we missed our turn and pulled onto a highway, my friend and I were stopped by the police as we arrived… Hmmm.
Why? I don’t know…
Luckily, we left unscathed and headed to the historical centre where we discovered Plovdiv’s cobbled quiet streets occupied with quaint restaurants and vibrant artwork. Immediately, I could see why Plovdiv had been named the European Capital of Culture in 2019. Leisurely locals cross paths in small squares and parks. There are street food stands, ancient stadiums and artsy old towns, plus 7 stunning hilltops surrounding the city that make for a great walk.
An easy day trip from Sofia, but I recommend staying at least 3 days in a city whose history dates back to Roman times. Additionally, Plovdiv claims to be the oldest continuously inhabited city in Europe, with evidence of settlements dating back to 6000 BC!
You can enter picturesque old wooden merchant houses and see the roman theatre that is still in use almost 2000 years after its construction! The hidden charm of Bulgaria is clear when you consider this theatre was not discovered until 1970 following a landslide!
Plovdiv also exhibits some wonderful street art.
The photos do the talking, on every corner of this pretty city you will find magnificent murals to admire.
See also: The Crazy Tourist has a great article on the 15 Best Things to Do in Plovdiv
5. Experience Rural Bulgarian life Volunteering on Local Projects
If you’re really travelling slowly, Workaway and Worldpackers are helpful volunteering platforms with a number of volunteering opportunities in Bulgaria. I landed, by pure serendipity, in the arms of Veliko Tarnovo’s environmental projects. By chance, 2 volunteering positions messaged me about helping them with their permaculture initiatives within days of each other.
It was not in my plans to visit, but I could not ignore these 2 coincidental signs!
Some early mornings, I started tending to the soil. Still exhausted and wanting to go back to bed, I watched older local women (commonly named ‘babas’) spend hours of their day taking care of their vegetable patches and watering plants.
For hours this went on, and the babas left a fascinating impression of patience and dedication on me. I loved how they showed an appreciation for the ground and a lifestyle of living harmoniously with nature. Their local attitude to fruit and vegetables adds to the quality of the food, which is definitely enhanced by the climate. I had no idea a tomato could taste so good.
How to find volunteering projects: Check out Workaway and Worldpackers to travel without paying for accommodation! Volunteer and take part in exciting projects. My Worldpackers link currently gives a $10 discount and an extra 3 months if you purchase an annual membership before 31st December. That’s 15 months of accommodation-free travel!
6. Indulge at a Local Taverna and Taste some Rakia
The food in Bulgaria is truly ‘East-Meets-West’ and the locals add a lot of cheese and yoghurt to their cooking. During my trip, I couldn’t help but draw similarities between India and Bulgaria. Perhaps related to the longstanding relationship between the two countries, with traces of evidence going back as early as the 8th Century AD!
Not only did I come across Indian-style toilets and old ladies wobbling their heads in that soft gentle manner. Bulgaria has a number of dishes I found similar in seasoning to Indian flavours. I particularly enjoyed the popular local dish named Kavarma. A marinated and slow-cooked meat and vegetable stew that can be mild or spicy. Often served with white rice or hot pepper and a shopska salad.
There are also some wacky dishes like ‘Shkember chorba’ also known as ‘Tripe soup’. According to my Bulgarian friends, it is the best hangover cure (not for me!). A kind of soup made of cow stomach cooked with butter, garlic and boiled with milk. Other well-known dishes include Tarator, Shopska salad and Banista- a baked phyllo pastry commonly served with cheese and other sweet or savoury fillings.
Ensure to try Bulgaria’s national drink, the intensely strong rakia. I coughed tasting a drink that is somewhere between vodka and tequila. Bulgarians will commonly use the proverb: “A psychotherapist can help you but rakia is cheaper”.
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7. Go to a festival and enjoy the hospitality of friendly locals.
The culture of any country’s tradition and heritage is best reflected through its locals and festivals. Bulgaria is a country of festivals, and its culture and traditions rejoice with colourful art and folklore festivals throughout the year.
Check out this list of 14 Bulgarian Festivals to check out by Chasing the Donkey.
The Rose Valley of Kazanlak in Bulgaria’s central region stretches for 87 miles and is a year-round destination. But, on the first Sunday of June each year, you can enjoy Bulgarian folklore dancing, traditional crafts and photography in the rose fields.
It seems there are always friendly locals to meet around and about, or at a traditional taverna. One day, I was simply walking through a small village in the middle of nowhere when a number of elder women came out of a church. A smile and a hug later, one woman handed me a brown bag. Inside was a packed lunch!
Also read: Slow Travel Greece: 8 Reasons I fell in love with Crete
8. Explore Diverse Nature with Hiking and Outdoor Sports.
Bulgaria is a hotspot for diversity in Europe and the nation’s hiking trails are plentiful. It’s no surprise, given that 1/3 of the country’s territory is covered by forests. Bulgaria has a majorly mountainous landscape with almost 1400 protected natural areas. There are plenty of adventures to be had in Bulgaria, from skiing to horseriding, of course, hiking and even scuba diving in the Black Sea.
Hiking, in my opinion, is the best way to explore a country and save money. Besides the major attractions in Bulgaria like the Rila monastery and Vitosha mountain, there is an abundance of short and sweet walking routes exist across the country. While volunteering in Veliko Tarnovo, I spent delightful mornings strolling through small green villages and reading under oak trees.
A jump on the metro from central Sofia will take you to Vitosha where you can take a bus to hike or ski (depending on the season) up, down and around the trails of Vitosha mountain.
Beyond, you can hike to the Rila Monastery, a grand and magical UNESCO World Heritage where nature meets religion. Entry is free, and if you get there early, you spend the rest of the day exploring the stunning and calm 7 Rila Lakes.
Also read: Triund Trek: A two-day hike to Triund and the Snowline
Slow Travel Bulgaria- In summary:
In many ways, Bulgaria is a crossroads country, a meeting place where East, West, North and South meet. As one of the oldest countries in Europe, Bulgaria is also one of the oldest inhabited countries in the world.
As always, I will recommend volunteering in the countries you visit to get the most out of your travels. My journey to Bulgaria was truly enhanced by the connections I made and the projects I took part in. That’s why I recommend Workaway and Worldpackers to experience travel without paying for accommodation. More than anything, the skills you learn and the connections you make are what make our slow travel experiences so memorable.
Travellers who stroll off the beaten path of Europe will discover just how much Bulgaria has to offer its visitors. Despite being the cheapest destination in Europe, it remains relatively unknown to most holidaymakers and tourists on the backpacking trail.
[…] getting back to their ‘normal lives’, they can’t comprehend the idea of spending 3 months in Bulgaria or a year in […]
A wonderful summary that does Bulgaria justice – thank you for reminding me of the beauty of this country 🙂
Anytime :)!